Featured

John and Horace would be proud of the impact their namesake car has made on so many auto enthusiasts. Even 85 years after their demise, younger generations are still discovering the styling and performance of this proud old brand. By 1970, that performance and pride culminated in some very enticing streetcars. This Challenger and Dart are two excellent examples of the machinery, while Tony and Phillip Peck are perfect examples of that younger generation.

Trick Truck Suspension

Free Jaguar? Don Shirer couldn’t resist the tempting offer, even if it meant just for the prized suspension lurking beneath. This XJ6 boasted the coveted independent rear suspension and A-frame front, perfect for his vision of a smoother-riding ’55 Chevy pickup. Follow along as Shirer masterfully tackles the swap, using readily available tools and his own ingenuity to bridge the gap between classic and modern.

Drop It Right

The C10 series of Chevy pickups is generally accepted as being the best-looking early pickups from the land of Bow Ties. But the one problem is that the factory fit them with roughly the same ride height as a 4×4. We suppose the guys who bought and used these trucks as trucks liked them that way, but the rest of us prefer them down in front. Having read nothing but truck magazines all your adult life, you know that there are many ways to lower a truck, from melting the springs with a torch all the way to installing forged aluminum IFS A-arms. We’ve read a couple of magazines ourselves and can tell you the safest, most affordable and simplest way.

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METALFLAKE: The Roth Way

A Wild Weekend in Some Rock Star’s Pad in Lake Tahoe Turns a Bone-Stock Chevy into a Kandyflake, Metalflake Baby

Spraying flake isn’t a black art; it’s simply a slightly different medium. It’s no tougher to spray than anything else, although you do have to be meticulous, pay attention to the details and resist the urge to rush. Plus, unless you have a spray booth, it doesn’t matter how well you seal off your chosen spraying area: This stuff will escape and get everywhere.

Author

Simon Watts

Story and Photography

Spraying Metal Flake: An Introduction to a Unique Custom Paint Finish

We’re not going into the details on prep, as it’s the same for any paint job. If you don’t know what you’re doing in the prep department, then no way are you going to be able to spray flake. Now that the scaremongering is over, note this: Spraying flake isn’t a black art; it’s simply a slightly different medium. It’s no tougher to spray than anything else, although you do have to be meticulous, pay attention to the details, and resist the urge to rush. Plus, unless you have a spray booth, it doesn’t matter how well you seal off your chosen spraying area: This stuff will escape and get everywhere. Be prepared to placate the wife and neighbors when you’re done.

Starting Out: Confidence and Commitment

If you’re confident with your painting abilities, have at it. Don’t be shy and don’t be afraid. You can do it. Even if you mess up, all it’s going to cost is time and materials. At the very worst, you’ll be sanding off your mistakes and starting from scratch; but then, sometimes that’s the best way to learn. After all, nobody became an expert without a few hiccups along the way.

Following the Experts: Rob Bodine and Steve Tamer’s Guide to Roth Flake

Follow along as Rob Bodine (the gunslinger) and Steve Tamer (the tech guy) from AB Paint Supplies (510/706-3200) give you the skinny on the new Roth flake. In this case, we’re spraying a coat of Uncle Bob’s Blooz onto the roof of this 1966 427 Chevy. It’s complete and utter sacrilege in some circles, but that’s their problem.

Design and Prep: Simon Watts’ Scallop Layout for the Flake Roof

Simon Watts of the Watts Factory (310/427-5566) laid out the scallop design that separated the flake roof from the rest of the car, and we were ready to mask off and get going.

Some people like to use clear to carry their flake, but Rob uses binder instead, as he prefers its higher build qualities. He mixes it in a 1:1 ratio with basecoat reducer. Binder also has the added benefits of drying faster, being easier to work with and less likely to run if you get a little heavy-handed.

Add the flake one tablespoon at a time until it’s happy coming out of the gun and you’ve got enough in there to satisfy your craving. Don’t go mad; you’d be surprised how little you need in there to get good coverage. Don’t be tempted to dump the whole jar in there, because it’s just not necessary. After all, it’s not going on in one hit. The trick is to build it up in layers, just as with normal paint. You can see on the paint stick how dense the mixture is.

Before we spray, let us fill you in on the gun. It’s a HVLP gravity feed set at 35 psi. It’s nothing special; just your average 50-buck gun. So there’s no excuse for blaming your equipment for not being good enough—it’s all down to you. Here’s the big secret though: Drill out the tip from 1.4 mm to 2.2 mm. That’ll open it enough to let the flake fly through there. But be careful when you do it. Don’t drill it so wide that it shortens the lip of the aperture, as you don’t want any more than the normal amount of needle poking through. Study the picture to see what we mean.

Before you add the paint to the gun, remember to throw in a few clean bolts or ball bearings. You need them in there so you can agitate the paint and keep the metalflake in suspension the whole time you’re spraying. Remember to shake the gun constantly, although obviously not when you’re actually spraying.

When spraying, just use your regular pattern of alternating between horizontal and vertical overlapping spray patterns. Hold the gun the usual 6 inches from the surface and let each coat flash off for between 10 and 20 minutes, depending on ambient temperature.

Here’s a surprising tip that we never would have dreamed of doing. Tack the flake down between each coat. Go easy, as it tends to attract lint, so you might want to use an old tack cloth and simply rub over the entire surface. Tacking it down helps the flakes sit down and behavethemselves, which means fewer clearcoats in the end to bury them. Just make sure you haven’t left any lint behind. If you have, carefully pick it out.

When you’re happy with the flake coverage, which in our case took about four passes, you can lay down a few coats of clear. Then start your color sanding. It looks scary, but just go for it. Just don’t go so mad that you sand through to the flake. This is pretty standard stuff—just keep sanding and clearing until you have a nice, smooth surface, but be careful. How perfectly mirror finish you want to go will dictate how much work you have ahead of you.

Here you can see we’ve still got some serious orange peel, so we’re going to have to add a few more coats of clear before we’re happy.

The next step is to unwrap that puppy once everything clears as dry as a bone. You can tear into the masking paper, no problem, but when you get down to the masking paper and the fine-line tape around the edges, be careful. Make sure you fold it back on itself in the direction you’re unwrapping so you don’t lift any paint. Once that’s done, you’re ready to roll the beast outside to savor your reward.

It’s surprising how you can get away with a “less than perfect” clearcoat surface. Although, of course, we couldn’t resist piling on the clear, and Rob and Steve certainly wouldn’t settle for anything less than perfection.

One thing’s for sure: When you roll that puppy out into the sunlight you’re going to flip, because this stuff is unbelievable. It sparkles like the eyes of a 70-year-old spinster getting married for the first time. You’d be surprised how forgiving the flake can be if you can’t be bothered spraying endless clearcoats for a mirror finish.

All that’s left now is to have Simon Watts from the Watts Factory pinstripe the edge to really finish off the job. Once that was done, the Chevy was ready to hit the road and blind oncoming traffic and low-flying aircraft.