July 2023
Hot rodders are a picky lot; some want their rides to look as if they stepped out of a time warp, but they also want them to be equipped with the latest of mechanical improvements. Disc brakes, power steering, air conditioning and even full surround-sound stereos and videos are the norm. So it should come as no surprise that the benefits of electronic fuel injection have been fully embraced by those who drive vintage trucks. But with notable exceptions, the look of the fuel injections systems was mostly unpleasing to the eye.
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Is it us, or does it seem that Jim Bell and his crew at Kenne Bell turn out hot trucks at truly astounding rates? In the past, they have built such a wide variety of trucks and SUVs that it’s hard to count them all. But when you consider all their other projects, such as their ’05 Mustang, the ’04 Focus and the ’04 Escape, it seems they have been busier than a one-armed paper hanger (whatever that means). One of their latest projects is this ’04 Ford F-150. As with most all of the other Kenne Bell projects, it started out as a new vehicle and was destined to be displayed in its SEMA booth.
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Free Jaguar? Don Shirer couldn’t resist the tempting offer, even if it meant just for the prized suspension lurking beneath. This XJ6 boasted the coveted independent rear suspension and A-frame front, perfect for his vision of a smoother-riding ’55 Chevy pickup. Follow along as Shirer masterfully tackles the swap, using readily available tools and his own ingenuity to bridge the gap between classic and modern.
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The ididit steering column in the 38 Chevy presented a conundrum for the SRRC crew. Its intended path straight through the engine compartment was blocked by the mighty LS1 lurking beneath. Instead of compromising on engine placement or aesthetics, the team got crafty. Inspired by modern car designs, they opted to dramatically shorten the column and snake it around the engine, hugging the underside of the custom aluminum dash. This not only cleared the heads but also resulted in a sleek and streamlined look that complemented the truck’s overall transformation. This excerpt highlights the resourcefulness and ingenuity involved in custom car builds, showcasing how unconventional solutions can lead to stunning results.
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Northern California native Fred Chapman’s ’96 Honda Civic is a project he undertook after having owned a handful of water-cooled Volkswagens. Chapman decided it was time to make the move to the Japanese market, and he found himself owning more Hondas than you can count on one hand. Having been around the Honda scene for well over a decade now, Chapman, with the help of his wife, recently acquired the one “H” car he had always wanted—the one you see here.
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Explore the world of chassis codes and the influence of the JDM movement as tuners decode vehicle identities. Dive into the unique story of Johnny Bauer’s Camouflage Green Effect DC2, a right-hand drive powerhouse with a meticulously designed interior, A’PEXi coilovers, Ray’s Gramlight wheels, and a potent 210hp JDM B18C ITR engine. Discover how form follows function in this exceptional build, where every detail, from the custom paint job to the performance-enhancing modifications, contributes to a standout presence in the competitive JDM scene.
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Have you heard of a company called Street Concepts? If you haven’t, get ready, as this month’s cover car belongs to its founder, Shawn Williams. But before we get into the story of this Mitsubishi EVO VIII, we have a couple questions for you.
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The Honda Prelude may not be as popular as the Civic or the Integra, but it does have a rather large tuner following. One of the reasons that the Prelude isn’t as modified as often as other Hondas is that the model’s initial purchase price is considerably more than a Civic Si or Integra GS-R, since the Prelude was better appointed with options and a more powerful engine.
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We all know and love the Honda/Acura B-series motors and for good reason. They have been and continue to be the mainstay of the sport compact performance market. Sure, the new K-series motors are making headway with more and more performance pieces and they look to succeed the B-series once the supply of used motors becomes available in the quantities (and pricing) currently enjoyed by the B-series. But for now, Civic, CRX and Integra engine swappers, not to mention the horde of those originally so equipped, have made the B16A, B18A/B, B18C and B18C5 the performance Honda motors of choice.
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Installing Electric-Life’s Power Window Kit Author If you are like many of us who have at one time or another opted for a less expensive vehicle to build, then this how-to will be of interest to you. At the cost of certain features or creature comfort conveniences mundane items like power windows and locks we often begin with what may be considered a strippo model or a basic transportation car that is … well, available. These cars can, after all, make for a great foundation that can easily be personalized, just like we are doing here. If you are unfortunate enough to own such a vehicle like the Civic DX, which never offered power windows then the thought of adding them has no doubt crossed your mind. The notion that power windows would make your vehicle just a little bit nicer is a sound one and that is where an Electric-Life power window kit comes into play. Electric-Life offers several different types of electric window kits, along with a full range of accessories for just these types of cars. And how about this little-known fact: Electric-Life power window systems are standard equipment on all Ferraris. So, with a set, you could say that you have the same! In addition to the typical universal-style power window kits, Electric-Life manufactures a large number of vehicle-specific kits that completely replace the manual window regulator and can also be used to replace a faulty OEM power window regulator. In our case, for the Õ00 Honda Civic, Electric-Life builds a complete, custom-fit, bolt-in window kit. Along with the window kit, a complete switch kit and wiring harness were also obtained from Electric-Life. To do the job right and to get the lowdown for this how-to, we took the car and the kit down to Unique Car Audio in Gilbert, Arizona, to document the installation. Check out the following photos and see if you feel this is something you can do in your backyard to add a bit of convenience to your ride. Another thing: when customizing the interior of your car, it is often easier to replace the existing window mechanisms and include a power set for that custom touch. Either way, this is an inexpensive way to add a bit of class to that tuner car of yours. 1. Here is the door before we started with the power conversion. Soon the manual crank will be gone and the pure convenience of power will take its place. 2. Before the door panel could be removed, the door pull was unscrewed and removed from the door. 3. The panel behind the door handle needed to be removed as well. 4. The clip that secures the window crank was removed and discarded. 5. Finally, the speaker grille was removed, as well as the screws that secure the door panel behind it. 6. The door panel was removed by pulling it away at the bottom and lifting up to clear the inner door panel structure. 7. Here you can see the factory manual window regulator and the four bolts that secure it to the door. 8. The four bolts around the crank were removed, along with two bolts that secured the bottom of the regulator to the door. 9. A pair of bolts secures the window glass to the regulator. Both of these were removed and the glass lifted up. 10. A few strips of masking tape hold the window in its up position so it will not interfere with the removal and installation of the window regulators. 11. With everything disconnected, the manual window regulator was removed through the large hole in the door and set aside. 12. Here you can see the Electric-Life electric regulator (bottom) and manual regulator (top). 13. Before installing the new electric window regulator, the wiring was plugged into the motor, as it is difficult to access once the regulator is in the door. (Trust us!) 14. The new regulator is simply fit into the door through the same hole that the manual regulator was removed from. 15. The new unit was test-fit before bolting on the screws. 16A,B. Using factory holes and the included hardware, the power regulator was secured to the door. 17. Next, the window was dropped back into position and secured to the regulator using the factory hardware. 18. Since our switches were going to be mounted in the center console, only two wires were run into each door. These wires were connected to the leads coming from the window motors. 19. To supply power to the system, the wiring harness was tapped into the ignition wiring beneath the dashboard. 20. The ground wire was secured to the metal chassis of the Honda, also beneath the dash. 21. With the wiring connections completed, the lower dash panel was reinstalled and all wiring was run through the center console. 22. The loose ends of the wiring were run up through the factory opening in the center console and through the Electric-Life switch plate. 23. Quick disconnects were added to the switch wiring to allow them to be removed in the future, if needed. 24. The switches were plugged into the wiring, making sure to test the polarity of the motors to see if it was correct. 25. With the wiring connected, the switches were snapped into place. 26. The finished switches fit perfectly into the blank spots in the Honda center console. 27. With the window crank removed, the opening in the door panel was filled with fiberglass and the panel was re-covered with matching suede. ARTICLE SOURCES
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