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    THE AUTO BUILDER
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    VALUABLE LESSONS

    Building an engine at home is exactly what you make of it—your first experience could be a good one if you choose to do it the right way, or it could be a bad one if you take short cuts along the way. As cheesy as it may sound, with engine building, you determine your own destiny with how you go about the build. Buy the right parts, talk to the right people and you may just have a long-lasting engine that puts a smile on your face every time the loud pedal hits the floor. Buy junk parts and think you know it all from the get-go and you’re looking at a big disappointment when it comes time to fire that bad boy.

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    Zap-A-Jack

    We know youʼve already checked out the photos or you wouldnʼt be reading this. You obviously wish to know a little more about this jack, so weʼll cut to the bottom line: If you get one of these for your very own, youʼd better not tell any of your buddies about it, or you will have to make room in the safe to store it. If they spot it in your trunk, just laugh about how you got it as a gift and hope none of them reads this article, or you will have to tape a cell phone to it to find out where it is this weekend–just when you need it!

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    Coast to Coast Cool

    Part of the rarity of this car comes in the fact that this is one of the first 12 original Coast to Coast ’39 Ford Convertible bodies to be built. Since that time, a second-generation body has been developed, and while some changes have been made, the overall look is very much the same, and for good reason. While this design certainly captures the appeal of an original ’39 Ford convertible, it also captures the look of the Chip Foose-designed Smoothster built by Hot Rods By Boyd. It’s sleek, it’s innovative, and, unlike the Smoothster, it’s a truly affordable way for the Millards to arrive in style.

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    Spotlighter

    POPULAR READS

    Force-Fed Prelude

    ETD Racing And DRAG Give A Much-Needed Boost

    Author

    Picture of Sean Greene

    Sean Greene

    Photography by Jim Edwards

    The Honda Prelude: A Hidden Gem in the Tuner Scene

    The Honda Prelude may not be as popular as the Civic or the Integra, but it does have a rather large tuner following. One of the reasons that the Prelude isn’t as modified as often as other Hondas is that the model’s initial purchase price is considerably more than a Civic Si or Integra GS-R, since the Prelude was better appointed with options and a more powerful engine.

    Prelude’s H22A Engine Performance

    In its stock form, the H22A produces between 195 hp and 200 hp (depending on the year of the Prelude). Unfortunately, the aftermarket was fairly sluggish to jump on the bandwagon when it came to hardcore parts for Preludes, such as the valvetrains, superchargers, and even turbo kits. Many enthusiasts were putting together their own turbo kits by making tubular exhaust manifolds, fabricating intercooler piping with U-bends, and using a boost-sensitive fuel management system. For the most part, this method of boosting an H-series engine was acceptable, but unless you had a whiz that really knew what he was doing, the results of this home-brewed turbo system could be something less than expected.

    Improved Aftermarket Support for the H22A Engine

    Thankfully, the H-series has better support nowadays, and both enthusiasts and racers are making more power than ever with the aid of off-the-shelf turbo kits, like the DRAG system shown here.

    The DRAG Turbo Kit: Boosting Power Made Easy

    The DRAG turbo kit comes with everything you need to start making power: a high-flow 4-into-1 cast-iron manifold; Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo; Turbonetics Deltagate with a 7psi spring; DRAG high-flow front-mount intercooler; Blitz super blow-off valve; DRAG mandrel-bent chrome intercooler piping and mandrel-bent downpipe; DRAG wastegate dump-tube assembly; silicone hose and stainless steel hose clamps; high-pressure/high-volume inline fuel pump; boost dependent FMU, map sensor bypass; stainless steel oil feed and return hardware; and all necessary hardware and gaskets.

    ETD Racing: Bringing Turbo Power to the Prelude

    ETD Racing is one of many shops in Canada that are feeding enthusiasts with the fixes they crave. No stranger to performance, ETD has sponsored several successful pro racers, and it is home to North America’s fastest-piston Mazda Miata. Luckily for our readers, an ETD customer purchased a DRAG turbo kit for his ’00 Prelude, and the crew covered the entire installation from start to finish. The kit is easy to set up — it’s a bolt-on affair and only takes a few hours to install.

    1. The car already had an AEM intake pipe installed, which was removed prior to installation. (In the interest of getting to the point, we omitted those steps.) The stock exhaust manifold was removed and the DRAG ceramic-coated manifold was installed with a new exhaust manifold.
    2. This is one step that ETD Racing performs to the front crossmember. A cut is made and the ends are punched in, then it's welded up and painted black to prevent rusting. This increases clearance for the downpipe and reduces the chances of it knocking during acceleration and deceleration.
    3. The turbo is fitted and the manifold is bolted to the head. At this time, the turbo was also tightened down.
    4A. The next step was to install the downpipe, but not before using some instant gasket material on the turbine housing where the downpipe flange is secured. This method is preferred over using a conventional gasket, as it's less likely to fail over time. The downpipe is installed and attached to the turbo.
    4B. The next step was to install the downpipe, but not before using some instant gasket material on the turbine housing where the downpipe flange is secured. This method is preferred over using a conventional gasket, as it's less likely to fail over time. The downpipe is installed and attached to the turbo.
    4C. The next step was to install the downpipe, but not before using some instant gasket material on the turbine housing where the downpipe flange is secured. This method is preferred over using a conventional gasket, as it's less likely to fail over time. The downpipe is installed and attached to the turbo.
    5A. Here's a shot of the downpipe installed and the additional clearance gained from modifying the crossmember.
    5B. Here's a shot of the downpipe installed and the additional clearance gained from modifying the crossmember.
    5C. Here's a shot of the downpipe installed and the additional clearance gained from modifying the crossmember.
    6A. The oil return hose is fit to the turbo and to a fitting installed in the oil pan. The oil return fittings on the turbo and oil pan are installed using Teflon tape to prevent any leaks.
    6B. The oil return hose is fit to the turbo and to a fitting installed in the oil pan. The oil return fittings on the turbo and oil pan are installed using Teflon tape to prevent any leaks.
    7A. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions.
    7B. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions.
    7C. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions.
    7D. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions.
    8. A fitting for the vacuum line that goes to the boost controller is installed onto the Turbonetics Deltagate. The vacuum line is attached and secured with a tie strap.
    9. Next up is the DRAG boost-sensitive fuel management unit (FMU). This device will increase fuel pressure on the fuel rail as soon as it senses positive pressure on the intake manifold. The pressure signal is delivered via vacuum hose to the regulator. The increased fuel pressure allows the injectors to introduce more fuel to the combustion chamber.
    10A. The check valves are installed inline to blow boost out to the atmosphere so that the MAP sensor doesn't receive a positive reading and cause a check engine light. The Blitz blow-off receives a vacuum from the intake manifold that has been tapped off a separate vacuum hose.
    10A. The check valves are installed inline to blow boost out to the atmosphere so that the MAP sensor doesn't receive a positive reading and cause a check engine light. The Blitz blow-off receives a vacuum from the intake manifold that has been tapped off a separate vacuum hose.
    10B. The check valves are installed inline to blow boost out to the atmosphere so that the MAP sensor doesn't receive a positive reading and cause a check engine light. The Blitz blow-off receives a vacuum from the intake manifold that has been tapped off a separate vacuum hose.
    10C. The check valves are installed inline to blow boost out to the atmosphere so that the MAP sensor doesn't receive a positive reading and cause a check engine light. The Blitz blow-off receives a vacuum from the intake manifold that has been tapped off a separate vacuum hose.
    10D. The check valves are installed inline to blow boost out to the atmosphere so that the MAP sensor doesn't receive a positive reading and cause a check engine light. The Blitz blow-off receives a vacuum from the intake manifold that has been tapped off a separate vacuum hose.
    11A. With the fuel enrichment taken care of, focus is shifted onto the intercooler piping. A silicone coupler is attached to the throttle body, followed by the cool pipe that leads to the intercooler. A Blitz blow-off valve was also installed on the pipe, which prevents the turbo from damage like backpedaling when the throttle is closed.
    11B. With the fuel enrichment taken care of, focus is shifted onto the intercooler piping. A silicone coupler is attached to the throttle body, followed by the cool pipe that leads to the intercooler. A Blitz blow-off valve was also installed on the pipe, which prevents the turbo from damage like backpedaling when the throttle is closed.
    12A. In order to install the intercooler piping properly, it's necessary to enlarge a stock hole in the metal opposite the radiator. The opening is now large enough for the intercooler piping. Split rubber tubing is used to protect wiring while improving cosmetics. The piping is fastened using supplied hose clamps.
    12B. In order to install the intercooler piping properly, it's necessary to enlarge a stock hole in the metal opposite the radiator. The opening is now large enough for the intercooler piping. Split rubber tubing is used to protect wiring while improving cosmetics. The piping is fastened using supplied hose clamps.
    13A. The hot pipe is also connected to the turbo and intercooler in the same fashion as the other piping.
    13B. The hot pipe is also connected to the turbo and intercooler in the same fashion as the other piping.
    14. The final steps are to prime the turbo with oil so that the bearings are lubricated and the air filter is installed onto the turbo. The Prelude is now ready to rock!

    ARTICLE SOURCES

    Manufacturer

    Picture of Drag Turbo Kits

    Drag Turbo Kits

    43290 Christy St.
    Fremont, CA 94538

    510/440-9894

    Manufacturer

    Picture of ETD Racing

    ETD Racing

    5201 Vivian Rd., Unit #1
    Cedar Valley, Ontario
    L0G 1E0 Canada

    905/473-5022

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