Explore the world of chassis codes and the influence of the JDM movement as tuners decode vehicle identities. Dive into the unique story of Johnny Bauer’s Camouflage Green Effect DC2, a right-hand drive powerhouse with a meticulously designed interior, A’PEXi coilovers, Ray’s Gramlight wheels, and a potent 210hp JDM B18C ITR engine. Discover how form follows function in this exceptional build, where every detail, from the custom paint job to the performance-enhancing modifications, contributes to a standout presence in the competitive JDM scene.

Words: Sean Greene | Photos: Jim Edwards ETD Racing And DRAG Give A Much-Needed Boost The Honda Prelude may not be as popular as the Civic or the Integra, but it does have a rather large tuner following. One of the reasons that the Prelude isn’t as modified as often as other Hondas is that the model’s initial purchase price is considerably more than a Civic Si or Integra GS-R, since the Prelude was better appointed with options and a more powerful engine. In its stock form, the H22A produces between 195 hp and 200 hp (depending on the year of the Prelude). Unfortunately, the aftermarket was fairly sluggish to jump on the bandwagon when it came to hardcore parts for Preludes, such as the valvetrains, superchargers and even turbo kits. Many enthusiasts were putting together their own turbo kits by making tubular exhaust manifolds, fabricating intercooler piping with U-bends and using a boost-sensitive fuel management system. For the most part, this method of boosting an H-series engine was acceptable, but unless you had a whiz that really knew what he was doing, the results of this home-brewed turbo system could be something less than expected. Thankfully, the H-series has better support nowadays and both enthusiasts and racers are making more power than ever with the aid of off-the-shelf turbo kits, like the DRAG system shown here. The DRAG turbo kit comes with everything you need to start making power: a high-flow 4-into-1 cast-iron manifold; Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo; Turbonetics Deltagate with 7psi spring; DRAG high-flow front-mount intercooler; Blitz super blow-off valve; DRAG mandrel-bent chrome intercooler piping and mandrel-bent downpipe; DRAG wastegate dump-tube assembly; silicone hose and stainless steel hose clamps; high-pressure/high-volume inline fuel pump; boost dependent FMU, map sensor bypass; stainless steel oil feed and return hardware; and all necessary hardware and gaskets. ETD Racing is one of many shops in Canada that are feeding enthusiasts with the fixes they crave. No stranger to performance, ETD has sponsored several successful pro racers and it is home to North America’s fastest-piston Mazda Miata. Luckily for HCI readers, an ETD customer purchased a DRAG turbo kit for his 00 Prelude and the crew covered the entire installation from start to finish. The kit is easy to set up it’s a bolt-on affair and only takes a few hours to install. 1. The car already had an AEM intake pipe installed, which was removed prior to installation. (In the interest of getting to the point, we omitted those steps.) The stock exhaust manifold was removed and the DRAG ceramic-coated manifold was installed with a new exhaust manifold. 2. This is one step that ETD Racing performs to the front crossmember. A cut is made and the ends are punched in, then it’s welded up and painted black to prevent rusting. This increases clearance for the downpipe and reduces the chances of it knocking during acceleration and deceleration. 3. The turbo is fitted and the manifold is bolted to the head. At this time, the turbo was also tightened down. 4A. The next step was to install the downpipe, but not before using some instant gasket material on the turbine housing where the downpipe flange is secured. This method is preferred over using a conventional gasket, as it’s less likely to fail over time. The downpipe is installed and attached to the turbo. 4B. The next step was to install the downpipe, but not before using some instant gasket material on the turbine housing where the downpipe flange is secured. This method is preferred over using a conventional gasket, as it’s less likely to fail over time. The downpipe is installed and attached to the turbo. 4C. The next step was to install the downpipe, but not before using some instant gasket material on the turbine housing where the downpipe flange is secured. This method is preferred over using a conventional gasket, as it’s less likely to fail over time. The downpipe is installed and attached to the turbo. 5A. Here’s a shot of the downpipe installed and the additional clearance gained from modifying the crossmember. 5B. Here’s a shot of the downpipe installed and the additional clearance gained from modifying the crossmember. 5C. Here’s a shot of the downpipe installed and the additional clearance gained from modifying the crossmember. 6A. The oil return hose is fit to the turbo and to a fitting installed in the oil pan. The oil return fittings on the turbo and oil pan are installed using Teflon tape to prevent any leaks. 6B. The oil return hose is fit to the turbo and to a fitting installed in the oil pan. The oil return fittings on the turbo and oil pan are installed using Teflon tape to prevent any leaks. 7A. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions. 7B. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions. 7C. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher emissions. 7D. High-temperature gasket maker was used for the wastegate as well. The Turbonetics Deltagate is installed onto the manifold, followed by the installation of the wastegate dump tube. In this installation, the dump tube is bled into the atmosphere, allowing for a mild increase in power at the expense of higher

Street Concepts Shining Star Author Have you heard of a company called Street Concepts? If you haven’t, get ready, as this month’s cover car belongs to its founder, Shawn Williams. But before we get into the story of this Mitsubishi EVO VIII, we have a couple questions for you. What makes a good tuner shop? How do you know if a tuner shop has the right personnel to help build the car of your dreams? How important is it for a tuner shop to have credibility in the scene before you hand over your keys and your money? We have a feeling that most readers will agree when we say that the answers to all those questions are critical for anyone looking for the right shop. With that in mind, let us give you the rundown on Street Concepts and its totally tricked-out EVO VIII. Not only does Street Concepts know what serious enthusiasts are looking for, but it also knows how to build wicked tuner cars. Street Concepts is run by some of the biggest names in the industry and has some of the highest-profile clientele you can imagine. Williams is not only the owner, but he is also a very respected car builder and the main man for Valvoline at numerous car show events around the county. Along with Williams and a very talented staff is none other than Joe Galante, owner and builder of one of the most respected Supras of all time. Now that stacks up very well on the personnel side. So imagine dropping your car off and handing over your keys to either one of these guys. We would definitely have to say going in that you and your car would be in good hands at Street Concepts. But don’t just take our word for it. Look at some of the corporate icons that this crew has worked with over the years, like Pepsi and Oakley. And if those brand names don’t do it for you, think Kenwood USA, Nissan Motor Company, Mitsubishi North America, Toyo Tires, Nitto Tires and Hyundai Motor America. Those are some of the corporate accounts that have called upon Street Concepts for its services. Not only that, but some very big names have also worked closely with Williams and his staff. R.J. DeVera has been seen at the shop on several occasions. In fact, Street Concepts played a major role in helping him design and build both of the Pepsi Blue EVO VIIIs. Okay, this provides a little background on Street Concepts; what else has it done to pump up its reputation? This is the question many enthusiasts have asked Williams and it goes something like, Do you build anything for yourself? Not only does Williams build tricked-out cars for customers, but he also owns a couple of toys that will stop you dead in your tracks which leads us to the focus of this story: a firsthand, intimate look at his newest and by some opinions, wildest creation to date. The first thing that catches your eyes when you look at this car is the beautiful candy-yellow paint job or maybe it’s those huge 19-inch gunmetal Volk wheels. Of course, it could also be the massive GReddy front-mount intercooler. With a car of this caliber, it’s nearly impossible to concentrate on just one modification. The Street Concepts EVO VIII has been built to perfection and each and every modification just screams for attention. Even the exterior has been modified from top to bottom and is oh-so-hot. The interior is clean and totally done up in black suede and carbon fiber, the audio/video is sweet and to the point, and the motor has been outfitted with tons and tons of toys from GReddy. So where do we even begin to explain all the hard work and detail that has gone into this car? Not only is this EVO VIII ultra-impressive, but wait until you hear how quickly it was built! This Street Concepts work of art went from stock to holy crap! in just under 30 days. It made its debut at the 2003 SEMA Show, with a presence no one could forget. You can tell right off that the entire exterior of this car has been totally reworked. Before the crew at Car Prep could apply the new candy-yellow paint, it was responsible for removing the stock front and rear bumpers and the original side skirts. Next, the team installed a new body kit from C-West, which included a front fascia, side skirts, rear valance and eyelids. Once all the pieces were test-fit and prepped, sanded and smoothed, only then was it time to apply the custom paint. After several coats and hours of detailed painting, the car was beginning to take shape. Once the paint had dried and the car wet-sanded and buffed, Car Prep finished off the exterior by installing a JSP carbon fiber rear spoiler. The final touches came with a clean and simple graphics package from Garage Graphics. Sponsor logos were the main concern here and Street Concepts made sure that each company involved got the love and attention it deserved. With the paint still smelling fresh, the car went from Car Prep straight to Diamond Star Specialties for some special engine modifications. Williams knew that if he wanted to keep with the tradition of building hot cars, he would have to do something to the stock EVO VIII motor. He made a couple of calls to his good friends at GReddy and within days, a bunch of new toys arrived for the EVO VIII. Diamond Star installed the huge GReddy front-mount intercooler, an E-manage system, Profec E01, oil catch can and an engine oil cooler. To go along with the GReddy parts, the crew also installed a set of Sampco hoses, Vitek custom wires, Mackin cat-back exhaust, Rod Millen downpipe and undercarriage brace, RMR valve cover insert and a healthy dose of nitrous from the boys at NX. Once all the engine

IS IT REALLY POSSIBLE TO MAKE 650 HP FROM A B18C? Author The next level we refer to is the kind of sick power found only on the racetrack. Make no mistake, stuffing a 475hp turbo motor in the engine bay of any Civic will make for one wild ride, but we’re talking about crazy turbo power now. If 475 hp isn’t enough to get the party started, how about 500 hp? Still not enough—what about 550? Now things are starting to get serious, don’t you think? But we think we can do even better than 550 hp. Thinking that 600 hp had a nice ring to it, we decided to see what it took to produce over 600 hp from a turbo B-series.  Your first thought may be that all it takes to go from 475 hp to 600 hp is more boost. I mean, if the B16A produced 475 hp at 21 to 22 psi, won’t the power increase with more boost pressure? The answer to that question is actually both yes and no, as additional boost pressure will usually add power, but there is a limit to how much additional power is available from the turbo and how much additional boost will be tolerated by the motor itself. In terms of the turbo, the T04E-46 used on our 475hp B16A was just about maxed out at the 475hp level. In fact, the power level actually exceeded the numbers indicated by the compressor map, so more power from more boost was not in the cards. Sure, we may have been able to sneak another 25 hp from the combination with more timing, less fuel and a tad more boost, but running the motor on the edge like that is never a desirable situation. More total timing and a leaner mixture can combine to create havoc in a turbo motor. The same can be said for increasing the boost pressure, since more boost equals more inlet heat, something that again increases the chance of detonation. It should be obvious that more boost is not always the answer when it comes to making more power; however, if more boost is not the answer, then how do we reach our goal of 600 turbocharged horsepower? One route may be to upgrade the turbo, since we had reached the limit of the smaller T04E-46 on the B16A. While a larger turbo would indeed allow us to increase the power output of the B16A, we would still have to resort to a sizable increase in boost pressure to further the power output of the little B16A. In reality, the turbo wasn’t holding us back from producing 600 hp, nor was the cam timing or the cylinder head flow or the intake manifold. The truth is that the entire combination was at fault, as the turbo B16A was never designed to pump out crazy turbo power. What we needed was to literally start from scratch and build a dedicated 600hp turbo B-series that would allow us to produce the desired power without resorting to astronomical pressure ratios (boost pressure). The key to producing 600 hp can actually be found in the buildup of the 475hp B16A—at least the basic principles. The success of the 475hp B16A came from the combination of an efficient turbo system with an already powerful normally aspirated combination. This recipe for success holds true even for our 600hp motor. All we had to do was “super-size” both sides of the equation. Stepping up from the 475hp kid’s meal to the super-size 600hp menu required a more efficient turbo system, along with a more powerful normally aspirated motor. Seems simple, right? Unfortunately, we had already produced a pretty healthy B-series for the 475hp buildup and additional normally aspirated power was getting harder and harder to come by. The key to the additional normally aspirated power came (primarily) for an increase in displacement from 1.6 liters to over 1.9 liters. Simple math told us that the normally aspirated 1.6 liter produced 125 hp-per-liter (200 hp from 1.6 liters). If we retained the same specific output, but increased the displacement to 1.93 liters, the normally aspirated power output should jump to over 240 hp. Adding the proper turbo to a 240hp motor would make reaching our goal of 600 hp much easier and require less ultimate boost pressure. The first step was to build the larger, more efficient B-series. We started with a 1.8-liter GSR block and had the motor sleeved to increase the wall strength. We did not install a deck insert, as the sleeves have proven more than strong enough to withstand the additional power, providing the motor is tuned to eliminate any trace of detonation. The short block included a stock steel GSR crank, a set of forged Eagle connecting rods and a quartet of forged pistons from Probe Racing. The forged pistons featured dished tops and valve reliefs to lower the static compression while allowing high-lift cams. The short block was assembled using new Honda rod and main bearings and a fresh oil pump. Additional goodies included a set of ARP head studs and a Moroso oil pan that featured a provision for the oil drain for the turbo, which eliminated the need to weld a fitting onto the stock pan. Had the timing been right, we would have run our new Dart block, but we’ll reserve that for a future buildup. While the extra displacement was a step in the right direction, we knew that additional efficiency would also be beneficial. To that end, we installed one of the new Dart CNC-ported Honda cylinder heads on our turbo motor. The fully ported GSR head featured precision CNC porting on the intake, exhaust and even the combustion chambers. In addition to the porting, the Dart head also featured a complete Ferrea valvetrain, stainless-steel valves, springs and retainers. The springs and retainers allowed us to replace the wimpy stock cams with a set of Stage 2 cams from Skunk2.

Making The Boost Game Even More Fun With The New HP Racing SRT-4 Turbo Kit Author So, you are the proud owner of a brand new Dodge SRT-4 and you love the sound of boost. Better yet, you love how quick your little four-door is. The only problem is … you want it to be faster. The need for speed is killing you and you will do anything and everything to get your adrenaline flowing. You have seen Mike Crawford and Shaun Carlson go down the track in their very fast SRTs and now you want the same thing.  Well, unless you have a whole lot of money in your pockets, don’t count on going as fast as those two just yet. But, get this: HP Racing out of Miami may have something that will wake you up. HP has a turbo kit you can really enjoy and best of all, afford. Yes, this is the same HP Racing that built that incredibly fast HB. It has now expanded its product line with a Stage 1 upgraded Turbo Kit for the new SRT-4. Boost is good, but having even more boost is better. The HP Racing kit includes a T3/T04 Turbo, Turbonetics wastegate and blow-off valve, HP 2.5-inch to 3-inch downpipe, racing tubular header, all oil lines and all the gaskets and screws needed for a clean and simple install. With an HP Racing turbo upgrade, you can make your already quick car 95 hp quicker. We had a chance to visit Lujan Motorsports in Miami as it test-fit and dyno-tested the new HP turbo assembly. As you can tell from the photos and straightforward steps, this install is quite simple and it looks great, too. William Lujan and Pablo Raffaele were interested in seeing what this new turbo kit would do on the dyno and to their surprise, the results were even better than advertised. The SRT-4 made 215 hp and 235 lb-ft of torque in its OE form. Not bad for an all-stock SRT-4, but these guys were looking for more. They went through the installation, following the directions and keeping everything tidy. When it was time to see what the new kit was all about, the HP upgrade put out a very impressive 310 hp and 311 lb-ft of torque. Now that’s enough to wake up the SRT-4 and put it in anyone’s league. We made sure to take pictures of the new component so you could see just how big the HP turbo is. If you are in the mood for some extra boost or just want to spank up on some unsuspecting sleepers, make sure to check out this new kit. By the time you read this article, it will be on the market and readily available. We caught this one early on, so we could provide you the heads-up. Now you can beat the rush. All that is left for you to do is follow along as we show you the install, then go and tell your significant other that you now know what you want for the holidays. The kit retails for $2,400, which is a deal and a half if you consider the whole package. Your SRT will get a nudge shy of an extra 100 ponies and just as importantly, an additional 75 lb-ft of torque. HCI So, you are the proud owner of a brand new Dodge SRT-4 and you love the sound of boost. Better yet, you love how quick your little four-door is. The only problem is … you want it to be faster. The need for speed is killing you and you will do anything and everything to get your adrenaline flowing. You have seen Mike Crawford and Shaun Carlson go down the track in their very fast SRTs and now you want the same thing. STOCK SRT-4 SPECS: BLOCK CONSTRUCTION: Cast-iron, closed-deck, split crankcaseBORE X STROKE: 87.5mm x 101mmDISPLACEMENT: 2,429 ccCOMPRESSION RATIO: 8.1:1BORE SPACING: 96 mmDECK HEIGHT: 238.14 mmCONNECTING ROD DESIGN: Forged, cracked caps, threaded-in 9mm rod boltsCONNECTING ROD LENGTH: 151 mmROD/STROKE RATIO: 1.50:1CRANK DESIGN: Cast high-hardness steelMAIN BEARING DIAMETER: 60 mmROD BEARING DIAMETER: 50 mmCYLINDER HEAD CONSTRUCTION: Cast-aluminumCOMBUSTION CHAMBER DESIGN: 48-degree pent-roof with partial cloverleaf between intake valvesVALVETRAIN: Hydraulically adjusted rocker arm with roller cam followersINTAKE VALVE SIZE: 34.80 mmEXHAUST VALVE SIZE: 28.45 mmINTAKE VALVE ANGLE: 24.46 degreesEXHAUST VALVE ANGLE: 23.5 degrees NEW HP RACING SETUP SPECS:  T3/T04E Garrett Turbo 0.60 front housing 0.48 rear housing Stage 3 wheels HP Racing 2.5Ó-3Ó downpipe Turbonetics wastegate HP Racing tubular header Complete oil lines included All gaskets included Turbonetics blow-off valve included 1A,B. Here are a couple of views of the stock turbo to compare the size and space before the new T3/T04 was installed. 2. Notice the size of the new T3/T04 turbo. It is bigger than some peoples’ heads! 3. Although space looks tight, there is still plenty of room to install the new tubular manifold. 4. The tubular design will flow much better than the factory iron manifold and you can see from the many welds how much time went into the design of this bad boy. 5. Notice that it is a straight shot to install the turbo nothing is in the way. 6. With the thick mounting flanges, durability should not be a problem with the HP kit. 7. The overall packaging design is great. Some tolerances are tight, like the clearance between the cowl and the turbo, but everything fits nice and snug. 8. At this angle, you can see the fitment of the turbocharger in its new environment. 9. After the turbo and manifold are installed, you are ready to connect them to the new downpipe. 10. Notice how detailed Lujan is when doing an install. All the tools and equipment were set up before anything started. 11. The mounting flange between the block and the manifold is just as solid as the flange that connects the manifold to the T3/T04 turbo. 12A,B. A view of the turbo and

Sleeving A B-series Block Is Not New, But How It Is Done Can Make All The Difference Author These days, if you want to go fast on the track in a Honda, forced induction is almost a must, as most vehicles come with relatively small-displacement engines when compared to their domestic brethren. Basically, the more cylinder pressure and fuel that you can ignite, the faster you go. Admittedly, this all sounds pretty general, but for now, let’s roll with that thought. THE FIRST STEP IS TO REMOVE THE GREASE AND DIRT FROM THE BLOCK. THE EASIEST WAY TO DO THIS IS TO PLACE THE STRIPPED BLOCK INTO WHAT IS CALLED A HOT TANK. BASICALLY, HOT WATER AND CHEMICALS ARE SPRAYED ON THE BLOCK AND COOKED TO REMOVE YEARS OF GRIME AND GUNK. ONCE THIS IS DONE, THE BLOCK CAN BE INSPECTED FOR CRACKS OR OTHER IMPERFECTIONS. The problem with running a lot of boost on the B-series block is that the open-deck design, is great for efficiency, but lousy for strength. The factory sleeves tend to flex, causing ring sealing problems and resulting in a loss of power. They may even crack under the high-pressure conditions associated with extreme racing. B-series blocks are made from aluminum alloy, which is great for saving weight, but it’s not as strong as an iron block that affords increased strength at the cost of added weight. In both cases, there’s a tradeoff: you either get strength and a weight penalty with the iron block or lower weight and frailty with an aluminum block. Another problem with the B-series block is that if you wish to increase the bore size due to replacement pistons, you must bore the factory sleeve. This leaves less material for strength, which compounds the open-deck problem. Luckily, this isn’t as bleak as it sounds. Owners of B-series blocks have solutions to these problems, such as CNC-fabricated block guards or spacers that are pressed in at the top of the block to minimize flex and distortion of the cylinders. There’s also the all-new Dart block, but we’ll save that one for another article. However, the problem with block guards or spacers is they are limited to the installer and many builders have been led to believe that these spacers can be tapped into place with the butt end of a wooden hammer. What happens is that the spacer seldom goes in correctly and can cause failure, instead of preventing it. The current practice that is used in open-deck blocks like the B-series Honda block is to install a set of ductile iron sleeves. This isn’t anything new, as tuners have been using sleeves in domestic V-6 and V-8 blocks for a long time, and they have proven that the technique works. Out of all the materials available for this purpose, ductile iron was chosen because of its strength and versatility. In the past, gray iron was considered to be the most versatile of all foundry metals because its high carbon content made it easy to melt and cast. It had a low shrinkage rate and a tensile strength up to 60,000 psi; but aluminum alloy, such as 2024 alloy, has a tensile strength rating up to 63,000 psi. While both have high tensile strengths, the resistance to fracture is high as temperatures increase. Ductile iron is a graphitic metal that contains a high concentration of graphite spheres in its composition, unlike iron that contains flakes of graphite. If you have ever bent a graphite fishing rod or golf club, you know how strong it is. The same is true in ductile iron. It’s very resilient to fractures and cracking, while having 100,000 psi of tensile strength. The sleeve of choice for many high-performance engine builders is the Darton sleeve. Darton uses sleeves that have been centrifugally cast, a process where molten ductile iron is evenly distributed over the interior of a mold that ensures proper thickness without voids left by traditional casting methods. This process affords the Darton sleeve tensile strength of 130,000 psi. Aside from being strong and resistant to cracking, ductile iron affords thermal resistance able to withstand temperatures as high as 800 degrees F, while being very resistant to corrosion. Non-OEM blocks (like the Dart block) and welding of deck surfaces are outlawed by the NHRA. This ruling is a double-edged sword in a sense, as products like the Dart block would elevate the performance and power potential of B-series-powered vehicles. However, it also opens the doors for companies such as Dodge, General Motors, Ford and even McClaren to develop special engines for well-funded race teams. This could then make it virtually impossible for many racers to compete. Imagine a McClaren-powered Civic scorching the dragstrip. For now, blocks such as the Dart can be used on the street and racers will continue to use sleeved blocks because it is cost-effective, proven technology. RS Machines in Carson, California, is one such shop that has been machining blocks and installing sleeves since 1996 and has grown to be the best-kept secret in import drag racing. Not because it innovated something that nobody else did, but because RS makes a quality product that the world’s best tuner racers trust. In any form of competitive sport, the team that can maintain an advantage the best will always be successful and hard to beat. The team that keeps that advantage a secret the longest is even better off. This is exactly where RS Machines shines. Racers such as Bisi Ezerioha, Erick Aguilar and Jojo Callos use blocks prepped by RS Machines to dominate and smash records. What does RS Machines do that is so special? We were curious too, so we dropped by the shop to cover the process of installing ductile iron sleeves that are guaranteed not to leak. Here’s what we found.  1. When the block has been removed and dried off, its stock cylinders are gradually bored out in steps to accept the new ductile iron sleeves. In this

Tuners And Hot Rods Converge At California’s Largest Racing Facility Author As an automotive enthusiast, you know that a huge part of our scene is showing the world your pride and joy, and car shows have traditionally been the best places to do so. They give you the opportunity to talk shop with people who share the same passion. Individuals with different makes of vehicles are drawn together by the same love affair, whether they are into Hondas, VWs or Nissans, so these are great networking places to learn and make things happen. I got this call from JD, our publisher, who told me that I should head over to the California Speedway where the California AutoFest was about to go down. I had never heard of this event and had absolutely no idea what to expect in terms of attendance or caliber of vehicles. Hell, I didn’t even know how big the California Speedway was. Boy, was I in for a surprise. The California Speedway is humongous and it took quite a while for me to drive around the perimeter before reaching the entrance. I also noticed something else out of the ordinary domestic vehicles. And I’m not talking about Neons, J-body cars or Ford Foci. I mean old-school hot rods. For a moment I thought there was a mistake or that I got lost, but then I noticed that there were imports mixed in the lineup. Don’t get me wrong; I love old-school domestics with high-displacement engines, blowers and custom paint, but now I was even more curious about the show. How would the import dudes mix with the domestic cats? Apparently, they mixed rather well, but more on that later. When I first joined the Buckaroo family, there was talk about a rig that had recently been purchased. It was being painted and gussied up to use as a mobile headquarters at various events across the country. I was anxious to see this thing and when I did, I was blown away by its commanding presence. It’s hard to miss the big red Buckaroo rig. After meeting up with Neil Tjin, we took our initial tour of the show. For all intents and purposes, Tjin is The Man when it comes to the show aspect of things and I’m more the technical dude. What’s your preference when it comes to cars? Tjin asked. I told him that I love the old classic machines because the owners really know how to build true show vehicles. They pay attention to every detail and it shows in their finished products just take a look at the engine compartment of a well-executed classic show vehicle. The firewall is so clean that you could eat off it and there isn’t a speck of grease anywhere. Sure, there are trailer queens that never see the road; but if you compare apples to apples, you have to agree the domestic enthusiasts got it down. I pointed a few examples out to Tjin and he agreed. The flipside was that more classics were sporting four-piston calipers, car audio and fuel injections. So there is some cross-pollination between both groups. That said, there were enthusiasts from both groups admiring each others rides and asking questions. This can only lead to great things down the road, especially in terms of growth as a community and what can be learned from one another. American Products Company (APC) had its rig and freshly sponsored Team Orange, a group of Nissan S13 drift machines from Japan, on hand with Team Rotora to perform a drift demo for spectators. I always get a kick out of the reactions from newcomers when they watch drifting or import drag racing. The crowd was definitely thrilled by the drifters and wanted more. There was always something going on at this event. The roar of pushrod engines could be heard during the day as stock car drivers sped around the track. After a while, a monster 4×4 school bus was giving rides to those willing to fork over a few bucks for the honor. Near the Rotora and Kicker display area was a rock climbing setup that you could scale and Loren Ho of Rotora was trying his best to imitate Sylvester Stallone in  Cliffhanger.  Elsewhere, pushrods and OHC engines competed on the dragstrip to satisfy the need for speed, while others satisfied the need to shed some rubber in the burn-out area in the infield. The event spanned two days and spectators came out in droves both days to check out California’s best. The import presence was considerably smaller than the domestic turnout, but we know for a fact that it will increase next year, as major changes are in store and more tuners will know about the show. The California AutoFest promoters did a spectacular job putting this event together. We’re certain there will be more emphasis on the imports next year. And we’ll be there too bigger and better than ever.

Installing Electric-Life’s Power Window Kit Author If you are like many of us who have at one time or another opted for a less expensive vehicle to build, then this how-to will be of interest to you. At the cost of certain features or creature comfort conveniences mundane items like power windows and locks we often begin with what may be considered a strippo model or a basic transportation car that is … well, available. These cars can, after all, make for a great foundation that can easily be personalized, just like we are doing here. If you are unfortunate enough to own such a vehicle like the Civic DX, which never offered power windows then the thought of adding them has no doubt crossed your mind. The notion that power windows would make your vehicle just a little bit nicer is a sound one and that is where an Electric-Life power window kit comes into play. Electric-Life offers several different types of electric window kits, along with a full range of accessories for just these types of cars. And how about this little-known fact: Electric-Life power window systems are standard equipment on all Ferraris. So, with a set, you could say that you have the same! In addition to the typical universal-style power window kits, Electric-Life manufactures a large number of vehicle-specific kits that completely replace the manual window regulator and can also be used to replace a faulty OEM power window regulator. In our case, for the Õ00 Honda Civic, Electric-Life builds a complete, custom-fit, bolt-in window kit. Along with the window kit, a complete switch kit and wiring harness were also obtained from Electric-Life. To do the job right and to get the lowdown for this how-to, we took the car and the kit down to Unique Car Audio in Gilbert, Arizona, to document the installation. Check out the following photos and see if you feel this is something you can do in your backyard to add a bit of convenience to your ride. Another thing: when customizing the interior of your car, it is often easier to replace the existing window mechanisms and include a power set for that custom touch. Either way, this is an inexpensive way to add a bit of class to that tuner car of yours. 1. Here is the door before we started with the power conversion. Soon the manual crank will be gone and the pure convenience of power will take its place. 2. Before the door panel could be removed, the door pull was unscrewed and removed from the door. 3. The panel behind the door handle needed to be removed as well. 4. The clip that secures the window crank was removed and discarded. 5. Finally, the speaker grille was removed, as well as the screws that secure the door panel behind it. 6. The door panel was removed by pulling it away at the bottom and lifting up to clear the inner door panel structure. 7. Here you can see the factory manual window regulator and the four bolts that secure it to the door. 8. The four bolts around the crank were removed, along with two bolts that secured the bottom of the regulator to the door. 9. A pair of bolts secures the window glass to the regulator. Both of these were removed and the glass lifted up. 10. A few strips of masking tape hold the window in its up position so it will not interfere with the removal and installation of the window regulators. 11. With everything disconnected, the manual window regulator was removed through the large hole in the door and set aside. 12. Here you can see the Electric-Life electric regulator (bottom) and manual regulator (top). 13. Before installing the new electric window regulator, the wiring was plugged into the motor, as it is difficult to access once the regulator is in the door. (Trust us!) 14. The new regulator is simply fit into the door through the same hole that the manual regulator was removed from. 15. The new unit was test-fit before bolting on the screws. 16A,B. Using factory holes and the included hardware, the power regulator was secured to the door. 17. Next, the window was dropped back into position and secured to the regulator using the factory hardware. 18. Since our switches were going to be mounted in the center console, only two wires were run into each door. These wires were connected to the leads coming from the window motors. 19. To supply power to the system, the wiring harness was tapped into the ignition wiring beneath the dashboard. 20. The ground wire was secured to the metal chassis of the Honda, also beneath the dash. 21. With the wiring connections completed, the lower dash panel was reinstalled and all wiring was run through the center console. 22. The loose ends of the wiring were run up through the factory opening in the center console and through the Electric-Life switch plate. 23. Quick disconnects were added to the switch wiring to allow them to be removed in the future, if needed. 24. The switches were plugged into the wiring, making sure to test the polarity of the motors to see if it was correct. 25. With the wiring connected, the switches were snapped into place. 26. The finished switches fit perfectly into the blank spots in the Honda center console. 27. With the window crank removed, the opening in the door panel was filled with fiberglass and the panel was re-covered with matching suede. ARTICLE SOURCES