FINALLY, A JON MOSS SPECIAL EDITION
May 19, 2025
THE AUTO BUILDER
Featured
The Cavalcade of Customs Thrills at the 2025 Detroit Autorama
If you weren’t at the 2025 Detroit Autorama, you missed out on a pure, unfiltered dose of horsepower, chrome, and custom car insanity. From February 28 to March 2, Huntington Place (yeah, the old Cobo Hall) became ground zero for everything loud, fast, and meticulously built. And smack in the middle of it all? The Cavalcade of Customs—a no-holds-barred showcase of the wildest, cleanest, and most mind-blowing custom rides the country has to offer.
Product Spotlight: Any Level Lift’s Static Lift Series
If you’re looking to give your Ford Super Duty the stance, performance, and capability it deserves, Any Level Lift’s Static Lifts have what you need. For 2017–2023 Ford F-250, F-350, and F-450 models, these lifts aren’t just about height; they’re about commanding presence, improved handling, and off-road readiness. With choices between 4.5″ and 5.5″ lifts, these kits are tailored to make your Ford the king of the road—and trail.
MORE THAN A CAMEO
Gil Palmer just loves cars, trucks, and motorcycles. He’s owned more than 100 miscellaneous cars, ranging from ’40 Fords to ’55 Chevys to a ’70 Monte Carlo. He’s owned a few pickups, too, and this one originally came to him as the bonus gift, so to speak, in a trade of his ’32 Ford Cobo Hall winner for a motorcycle at the Detroit Autorama. The ’57 Cameo that he received in the trade had an entire ’55 front end on it, and because of that, everyone thinks it’s a ’55. But this truck was in pretty sad shape when it arrived at Palmer’s Southern California home. Just picture this one item in your mind for a minute, and you’ll get the gist of the kind of shape the truck was in: There was a hand-painted (we’re talking 4-inch-wide brush, here) Chevy Bow Tie on the tailgate. The 10:1 compression supercharged engine would overheat in a matter of a few blocks.
Spotlighter
DASHING F100
Installing a ’59 Impala Dash Into a ’56 Ford F-100.
Author
Warren Boughn
Story & Photography
We have shown you how to shave door handles, install custom outside door handles, round door corners, build suicide doors, add bear claw latches and so on. Now we’re going to offer you a personal favorite custom touch—installing a dash from a ’59-’60 Chevrolet Impala into a ’56 Ford F-100.
This how-to is intended to spark your interest, provide you with an idea and separate your truck from most of the others. It’s not a difficult swap, and you will find that car dashes that are from the same era as the truck lend themselves to this swap very well.
Follow along as we explore the custom install of a great-looking car dash in a truck.
2. This is what our almost stock ’56 F-100 dash looked like before it was removed. The switch holes had been filled in previously.
3-4. The first thing we did was find the center of the gauges and mark the dash.
3-4. The first thing we did was find the center of the gauges and mark the dash.
5-6. Next, we measured from our mark to the driver’s-door pillar. This measurement will be used to locate the new dash on the left side. As you can see, the dash is definitely wide enough for our project and will need to be trimmed.
5-6. Next, we measured from our mark to the driver’s-door pillar. This measurement will be used to locate the new dash on the left side. As you can see, the dash is definitely wide enough for our project and will need to be trimmed.
7. We used a plasma cutter to remove the F-100 dash face. We left a small lip surrounding the windshield area to attach the Impala dash to later. This way we can retain the upper F-100 dash trim and the defrost vents.
8. This is how the cab looks with the dash removed. Notice that the sides are double-walled.
9-10. We measured the Impala dash in both width and depth to get an idea of where we will be trimming it. This was compared to the new opening we now have.
9-10. We measured the Impala dash in both width and depth to get an idea of where we will be trimming it. This was compared to the new opening we now have.
11-12. We started fitting the Impala dash into the F-100 cavity by trimming the depth, followed by the dash braces.
11-12. We started fitting the Impala dash into the F-100 cavity by trimming the depth, followed by the dash braces.
13. All of this was followed by cutting the dash in two pieces (1-1/2 inches off-center), thus separating the dash.
14. We predetermined that the dash was 3 inches too wide. By removing 1-1/2 inches off-center each way, we will have removed 3 inches in two cuts instead of 3 inches by cutting it exactly down the middle and then 1-1/2 inches off each end.
15-16. The driver’s side is the first to be marked with the shape of the Impala dash and trimmed to size, as the gauge cluster location is critical.
15-16. The driver’s side is the first to be marked with the shape of the Impala dash and trimmed to size, as the gauge cluster location is critical.
17-18. Now that the Impala dash shape has been cut into the old dash sides, we can temporarily clamp it into place and check the fit. Notice that the lines of the truck dash and Impala line up perfectly, making it look as though it was meant to be.
17-18. Now that the Impala dash shape has been cut into the old dash sides, we can temporarily clamp it into place and check the fit. Notice that the lines of the truck dash and Impala line up perfectly, making it look as though it was meant to be.
19 Now that we’re happy with the fit and location of the Impala dash, we made a paper template of our cutout and transferred it to the other side. We will trim the excess metal as we did previously on the driver’s side.
20. We noticed that our dash was a little too deep and needed slight trimming. We used aviation snips for this.
21. With both dash halves clamped into place, we can mark our second cut to narrow the dash. Our 3-inch prediction was right on the money. If we were off slightly, we could have adjusted for it at this point by either leaving or removing more material.
22. Here’s a look at the pieces we removed from the center of the dash. The next step was to sandblast and primer the dash halves.
23-24. Our new dash mounts underneath the lip we left around the windshield. We found that it was blocking the defroster vent holes. We marked and removed those areas from the dash.
23-24. Our new dash mounts underneath the lip we left around the windshield. We found that it was blocking the defroster vent holes. We marked and removed those areas from the dash.
25. If you look closely, you’ll see that the dash sides are not flush with the pillar, which allows the stock kick panel to make up the difference. Since our dash is a little taller, we want to flush-fit this section.
26-28. This is how we went about the transformation. We started by removing the excess material in the dash edge, welding it back together and grinding it smooth.
26-28. This is how we went about the transformation. We started by removing the excess material in the dash edge, welding it back together and grinding it smooth.
26-28. This is how we went about the transformation. We started by removing the excess material in the dash edge, welding it back together and grinding it smooth.
29. Remember there were a few missing pieces when we received our dash? We made and welded in plates to fill in the holes and give the dash a smoother look.
30-31. The welds were ground smooth next. We added an extra switch indent for a more symmetrical look, and we needed it for our heater switch. Again, the dash was ground smooth and then primed.
30-31. The welds were ground smooth next. We added an extra switch indent for a more symmetrical look, and we needed it for our heater switch. Again, the dash was ground smooth and then primed.
32-33. We started installing the passenger’s dash half first. It helps to have someone help you do this step. The dash and lip from the other dash need to be pushed together tightly and tack-welded.
32-33. We started installing the passenger’s dash half first. It helps to have someone help you do this step. The dash and lip from the other dash need to be pushed together tightly and tack-welded.
34-35. The driver’s half was positioned next. We started joining the two halves together by tack-welding the seam in the middle of the dash. Before positioning the dash, we added filler pieces to smooth out the dash where the speaker grille and ashtray were to the driver’s side.
34-35. The driver’s half was positioned next. We started joining the two halves together by tack-welding the seam in the middle of the dash. Before positioning the dash, we added filler pieces to smooth out the dash where the speaker grille and ashtray were to the driver’s side.
36-37. Just as we did on the passenger’s side, we tack-welded the dash to the lip from the original F-100 dash.
36-37. Just as we did on the passenger’s side, we tack-welded the dash to the lip from the original F-100 dash.
38-40. This is how our dash looked after it was tack-welded together. Our tack-welds are a couple of inches apart for now.
38-40. This is how our dash looked after it was tack-welded together. Our tack-welds are a couple of inches apart for now.
38-40. This is how our dash looked after it was tack-welded together. Our tack-welds are a couple of inches apart for now.
41. We will continue tack-welding. Between the tack-welds, be sure to tighten the spacing until it becomes a continuous weld, skip around the dash and don’t apply too much heat to any one area. This is very time consuming, to say the least, but it’s necessary to keep the dash from warping too much. The dash is made of thin 20-gauge sheetmetal.
42-43. Here is a peek at the freshly ground welds. If you didn’t know any better, you would think it came this way from the get-go.
42-43. Here is a peek at the freshly ground welds. If you didn’t know any better, you would think it came this way from the get-go.
44. The radio portion of the dash is the last thing to complete. We will remove the radio-knob support brackets, leaving a rectangular hole in the middle of the dash.
45. This is the piece that will fill in the old radio hole. We made it from leftover sheetmetal we weren’t using.
46. Next, the radio filler piece is positioned, welded and ground smooth.
ARTICLE SOURCES
Precision Street Rods & Machines – CLOSED
19158 Roscoe Blvd
Northridge, CA 91324
818/886-5018
