The Independent Way

The Chevy dual parallel suspension systems and knee-action suspensions were way ahead of Ford in the ’30s and ’40s, but the cars were still riding roughly by today’s standards. In the ’50s companies, including Ford, were introducing independent front suspension systems, and the new design improved the ride and handling of the ’50s cars. Most of the suspension systems worked well for the times but were big and clunky, so they didn’t translate to street rods until the Corvair was introduced by Chevy. The Corvair had a smaller independent front suspension that unbolted from the unibody, and after the cars started ending up in auto wrecking yards, rodders began installing them in early street rods. They didn’t work that well or look good, but they did get rodders thinking more about having independent suspension systems in street rods.

In the early ’70s, while attending an Early Times hot rod run at Knott’s Berry Farm, we saw the first street rod with a really attractive independent front suspension system. Lil’ John Buttera showed up at the event with his recently completed ’27 Model T sedan, and it featured all of the things that would eventually become part of street rodding many years later. Always the innovator, Lil’ John’s sedan had independent front and rear suspensions with a design that he created and fabricated himself. The design used tubular upper and lower A-arms suspended by coilover shocks, and in the years to come, similar and improved designs would be used by others.

The big change in suspension system design came when rodders recognized the potential of the Mustang II suspension systems. They were small, light and provided a soft ride in many street rod models. Before long, several companies were developing suspension systems using Mustang II components and designing several different versions to fit a variety of street rod applications. Today, many companies offer a variety of independent suspension systems, including the top-of-the-line show suspension systems with tubular upper and lower A-arms and coilover shock suspensions, as well as airbag systems. 

On most designs, the front suspension features rack-and-pinion steering, Mustang II-style spindles and either stamped or tubular control arms made to utilize the pickup points of the Mustang II system, thereby retaining (in some cases improving) the geometry. Today, the Mustang II suspension systems are no longer found in wrecking establishments, so these kits are completely new designs and are manufactured with their own heavy-duty spindles, rack-and-pinion steering systems and all of the other parts needed to create an awesome independent front suspension.

When companies such as Total Cost Involved, Heidt’s or Fat Man Fabrications designed their new suspensions, it was done using correct Mustang II geometry going in and providing additional adjustment (for lowered vehicles) in a movable eccentric or shim system that was used to set the camber or caster of the suspension more easily, in much the same manner as a newer production vehicle. This level of engineering was carried over to the design of the crossmember, and all companies are very concerned with the ease of installation. Many systems use a one-piece crossmember assembly (generally made up of formed and bent parts welded together) that is welded into the chassis. This forms the basis for the suspension component pickup points and will mount the rack-and-pinion steering. Setting up the crossmember by positioning it square in the frame and at the right angle is important for providing a strong and correct foundation for the rest of the front suspension.

When installed, these suspensions look to be very delicate and intricate, but in reality they are extremely strong and easy to assemble for installation. If you have been intimidated by the complex look of any of these good-looking suspension systems, don’t be. We will break it down and show you how easy they are to install. The suspension system we use here just happens to be a Total Cost Involved unit, and although each manufacturer will have certain installation instructions for you to install its pieces, this will at least provide you with an idea of what is involved. Some cars may already have a crossmember installed, and all you’ll have to do is upgrade the suspension components. There’s a lot to choose from, and not all of these new options are as expensive as you might think. We urge you to call these manufacturers to check for yourself what works where, and what they recommend for your particular application.

The suspension assembly itself requires normal hand tools, but the installation of the crossmember will require a MIG or TIG welder and a 5-inch sander. The crossmember installation will also require an angle finder, careful measuring and a little patience so that you double-check the final installation location. Follow along as we show you how the fellows at Total Cost Involved installed this independent front suspension. Then you can use this information to decide whether you wish to tackle this install yourself or have a professional do it for you. Either way, these types of suspensions are now commonplace and will help bring your street rod into the modern age