1 One and a half coils were previously cut, yet there was 4 inches between the tire and the fender. The plan was to close this gap for a low ride height. 2 A breaker bar was used to break the lug nuts loose that had been on for a long time. The wheels were removed and the work began. 3 Everything you need is included in the No Limit Engineering kit. This saves both time and trouble when lowering your truck. In addition to the kit, a set of KYB shocks was used. 4 The first components removed were the old shocks. They were shot and headed for the dumpster.
5 After removing the shocks, the lower ball-joint castle-nut cotter pins were removed. The kit included new cotter pins for reassembly. The old ones should not be reused. 6 A floor jack was placed beneath the lower control arm to ensure the spring does not push the control arm down. The lower spindle nut was removed. 7 The outer tie-rod-to-spindle cotter pin and nut were next to go. New cotter pins will be used. The tie rod must be removed before the lower control arm can be lowered down.

8 The brake lines were disconnected. They were shot, so a set of Vise Grip pliers had to be used to break the seal between the old hoses and the steel lines. 9 With the jack beneath the control arm, a small sledgehammer was used to strike the control arm and break the seal. The lower ball joint began to slide free as the jack was slowly lowered, and the springs were removed. 10 The upper ball-joint cotter pin and nut were removed. Again, a sledgehammer was used to knock the spindle loose. 11 Here’s the entire assembly removed from the truck. While this may bring 10 or so bucks on eBay, it all was tossed. 12 The new lowered coil springs were set in place, along with the drop spindles. The jack was slid into place. This will hold the assembly in place while the new spindle is set into the control arms, but a spring compressor is safer. 13 The upper ball-joint nut is installed and tightened first. Before assembly, the control arms were cleaned and painted. 14 Next, the lower castle nut is installed onto the ball joint. Once tight, the floor jack is lowered and removed from beneath the control arm. The jack is let down slowly. 15 The new cotter pins were installed into the castle nuts and bent. This ensures that the castle nuts will not come loose, which could lead to catastrophic failure. 16 The tie rod is slid into the spindle arm, and the nut is installed and tightened. It is then set using a new cotter pin. 17 The kit includes new inner and outer bearings, which are fully greased before installation. 18 The inner bearing is installed first. A bearing installer or a brass drift should be used. When it seats, you will hear a thunk. 19 The outer bearing along with the retaining plate and spindle nut are then installed onto the spindle. Be patient, as the bearing can be a little difficult to slide onto the spindle.

20 After tightening the spindle nut, the new cotter pin is installed into the spindle.

21 The kit includes a set of new wheel bearing dust caps. Simply tap them into place. Be sure to use them, as they will keep dirt and dust from damaging the bearings.

22 The pads are loaded into the calipers and bolted into place. The calipers are held in place with two long attachment bolts that bolt through the spindle.

23 After installing the calipers, the new lines are connected. Crush washers and banjo bolts are included in the kit.

24 Once the brake lines are connected to the calipers, the hard lines are connected to the flex lines. The small clip then reinstalls between the flex line and bracket to hold the assembly into place.

25 The calipers are bled and the new KYB shocks are installed. When installed, the kit looks great and should provide a great improvement in braking.