THE AUTO BUILDER

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We all know itʼs what lies beneath the paint that really matters—a good chassis, great metalwork, and great design. Yet, having said that, the paint job still remains the single most important element of any rod or custom. After all, even if the groundwork has been laid, your bodywork is straight and great, your design is fine and your mechanicals are flawless, a poor paint job can spoil it all.

10 for 10

In today’s automotive aftermarket, building a great-running, awesome truck can soon lead to a depleted bank account. With the cost of billet wheels, the price of modern powertains and paint jobs costing thousands of dollars, building a truck for under $10,000 can, to many, seem like an impossible undertaking. During a serious editorial meeting to discuss that very topic, the one thing we all agreed upon is just how difficult it would truly be to build a $10,000 truck.

B-Series Bullseye: Part I

What can we say about VTEC Honda motors that hasn’t already been said thousands of times? Accolades have been bestowed upon the B-series Honda at an almost embarrassing rate—and we might add that all of its praise is well deserved. But we have already begun to turn our attention to the newer K-series motors, which by all accounts are even better motors than the B-series. They are sure to start a revolution of their own, but that is a discussion for a different day.

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ECONOMY STEERING

Installing a J&I Detroit Iron Steering Column in a ’56 Ford Pickup

Author

Jeff Tann

Story & Photography

The owner of this ’56 Ford pickup purchased it for a daily driver, and after driving it for a short time decided to make it more comfortable. Still running the original suspension, it rode rough and typically handled like an old truck, which it happens to be. He wanted a softer ride, and for the truck to handle like a modern sports truck, so several chassis improvements were in order.

Similar to how most rodders address these issues, he wanted improvements but needed to make them on a budget. To do so, he contacted the folks at Dream Cars in Simi Valley, California, to find out what they would recommend he do on his budget, and what those parts would cost.

Dream Cars is well aware of how rodders must work within budget constraints, and how component prices can make a significant difference when a proposed upgrade gets done. The shop worked at figuring out the best and most economical parts they could use to meet this customer’s demands and budget. Recommended improvements included a new independent front suspension, a Chevy 350 crate engine and a new steering system that would hook the steering wheel/shaft to the new rack-and-pinion unit. In this story, we will cover the steering installation and how it can be done for a reasonable price, as this will be a necessary step for such a suspension upgrade.

Aftermarket billet and chrome-plated steering columns weren’t an option for this truck, so a new steering column was ordered from a local supplier, J&I Detroit Iron in Norwalk, California. This column featured a column shifter, which was delivered with a black painted finish and is quite reasonably priced. The other parts required to finish the steering installation included a Flaming River column drop, Borgeson U-joints and steering shaft, and a Grant steering wheel.

With all of the parts in hand, the installation was quick and easy. The parts required to perform this installation consisted of nothing more than normal hand tools, Allen wrenches and a MIG welder. From start to finish this installation took half a day to perform, so just about anyone can duplicate the process even if it takes a little longer. Here’s how it went.

The base of the column drop was bolted to the dash first, and then the drop was installed with two Allen screws. At this point the screws should be tightened to the point where the drop can move back and forth for minor alignment.

The column was installed in the car and was placed in the column drop. Column drops are available in several hole diameters, so the correct one should be ordered for the column diameter. Here the column is being secured to the drop.

The original floorboard hole is covered with sheetmetal panels. They were removed to access the stock steering column when it was removed and can be reused for this installation. Here the right-side panel is being reinstalled.

The left-side panel was placed in the truck and required some minor trimming. Here a small section is being removed with hand shears.

After the trimming was complete the panels were connected to the floorboard with sheetmetal screws.

Here is the floorboard after the panels have been installed. The new brake pedal works fine with this installation, and the steering column exits in a comfortable position.

The original steering wheel is being replaced by a Grant Classic steering wheel. They are available in several diameters and dish applications. This one came with the steering column adapter.

The horn mechanism was installed and the nut was tightened. This is a simple steering wheel installation so anyone should be able to do it.

After the horn button adapter was installed, the chrome-plated horn button was connected.

Here is the Classic Grant wheel after it was installed. This steering wheel has three spokes so the open area should be on the topside for gauge visibility.

This is a simple installation that uses two U-joints and a single shaft. The steering column was installed first, and then measurements were taken and the parts were ordered from Borgeson.

The U-joint and shaft assembly was placed inside of the engine compartment, and then the U-joint was connected to the rack-and-pinion unit.