Featured

The white ’99 Silverado was beginning to show the wear and tear of fighting the highway wars the last few years. The once proud and pampered show truck—a standard cab shortbed with matching cab-high camper shell—hadn’t spent much time in daily service until recent years, but now it bore its share of dings, dents and scratches. It was obvious that the 50,000 miles on the odometer hadn’t done the 5.3-liter V-8 much good. Part of the reason for the dissipated performance was the exhaust system, a very tired, less-than-top-quality aftermarket after-cat that had started banging, squeaking and leaking.

Installing a new after-cat from MagnaFlow was at the top of this owner’s agenda. He acquired a MagnaFlow (part No. 15617) polished stainless steel after-cat performance system for his Chevy, and because he’s in the automotive business and has a lift at his own facility, all he had to do was enlist the help of a colleague experienced in exhaust system installs to lend a hand with the hookup.

Slippery Sedan

Greg Harris has been a car enthusiast for years and has built a number of muscle machines and classic trucks. He has had loads of fun with late-model cars, but he couldn’t shake the fact that he really had the yearning to build a street rod some day. His friends knew about his longtime goal, so when one of them found a partially completed early sedan for sale, he told Harris about the car. Harris went to take a look, and as it turned out, the car was a half-finished all-steel ’33 Ford two-door sedan powered by a 427 Chevy engine. He immediately knew he had to buy the sedan—it was just what he was looking for. He made a deal with Clark and Bridgett Short, the folks who started the project, and brought the ’33 home.

TEXAS TRANS-AM

Thirty-four-year-old Mustang enthusiast Dave McMillan of Dallas, Texas, may not have been old enough to remember those wild and woolly days of SCCA Trans-Am racing, but that doesn’t mean he can’t relive that glorious era each time he climbs inside his Trans-Am-style ’69 Mustang SportsRoof.
McMillan is what you would call a certifiable Ford nut, having owned quite a few noteworthy high-performance Fords over the years. The mix has included or currently includes the likes of a ’70 Mach 1, a ’93 SVT Mustang Cobra, an ’01 SVT Ford F-150 Lightning and a ’66 Sunbeam Tiger. “All my buddies give me a hard time for being a Ford man,” McMillan says. “I just tell them that anybody can drive a Chevrolet.”

Spotlighter

Drop ‘N’ Stop

Superior Spindles’ 2-Inch Drop Mixed With Wilwood Brakes

Author

Bob Carpenter

Story & Photography

Why Disc Brakes Are a Must for a ’55 Chevy

Getting a ’55 Chevy to sit at the right ride height is as easy as installing a set of 2-inch drop spindles, such as those from Superior Spindles and others. Getting the big ol’ car to slow down offers many more choices as well, and as long as you’re swapping spindles it is an excellent time to install those long-overdue disc brakes. When you think about it, it doesn’t make good sense to put a newly rebuilt tri-5 Chevy on the same road with stock OE cars with ABS four-wheel disc brakes. If ever you came upon a situation where a car ahead of you had to stop in an emergency situation, the performance of even a stock set of disc brakes will far “outdistance” your drum setup, meaning you would not be able to stop in time and could well end up in the trunk of the car ahead of you. Not good.

Stage I, Stage II, and Stage III Brake Options Explained

The standard swap (let’s call it Stage I) involves installing a 10-1/2-inch rotor, and that’s plenty for most people. The next step up (Stage II) is to use a kit to install a 12-inch 1LE Camaro rotor and a ’79–’81 Camaro caliper (also used on the Astro van). This kit typically sells for around $600, but it will widen the track a bit, so wheel selection is somewhat affected. Another step up (Stage III), involves using a 12-3/16-inch two-piece rotor and aftermarket Wilwood calipers. Superior Spindles’ version of this kit sells for around $1300, and it does not widen the track because Wilwood’s hat doesn’t use any adapters.

Installing Superior Spindles and Wilwood Brakes on a ’55 Bel Air

It just so happens that we knew of a shop that was about to install a Superior Spindles kit on a ’55 Chevy two-door Bel Air, so we elbowed our way into the place and set up camp with our cameras and notepads. This car already had a cheap set of drop spindles on it and a ho-hum set of 10-1/2-inch rotors, but the owner was definitely not happy. The braking performance, while better than the stock drums, was not nearly as good as he had hoped it would be, and he swore that he could feel the flimsy caliper mounts flex during braking. Whatever the reason, he wanted them off, and he brought the car to T&R Performance in Simi Valley, California, to get the work done correctly.

Stage II vs Stage III—A Real-World Comparison

Tim and Ron Porco also happened to have a Stage II kit in stock, to go along with the Stage III kit ordered for this car, so we took the opportunity to install both, giving you a nice comparison. Superior Spindles uses 4140 heat-treated chromoly for its spindles, and the kits include everything needed (seals, bearings, pads, and braided lines). The rotors in the Stage III kit are drilled and slotted for a more aggressive look.

Clean Install and Proper Fitment

The installation was surprisingly smooth and quick, or maybe it’s just that we are used to so many other installs having glitches and quirks that it made us take note when it all bolted right on and everything fit. Follow along and we’ll show you what is involved to swap in the Superior Spindles and Wilwood brakes on a car that was not up to par.

1. This ’55 is not stock, but it needs more help in the braking department.

2. A backside view shows that this car has air bags and plenty of wheel clearance for bigger rotors.

3. The stock spindles with 10-1/2-inch rotors added are marginal, and the ill-designed mounts flex during hard braking. The owner wanted to upgrade, and we concurred.

4. Since the usual tap of a hammer on the side of the tie-rod end wouldn’t knock it loose, Tim Porco uses a pickle fork.

5. The old spindle is removed and tossed into the garbage bin.

6. The new spindle from Superior Spindles is installed onto the ’55.

7. Tim threads on the spindle-mounting nut.

8. Tim slips the 12-inch rotor over the spindle.

9. Bearings are included in the kit. They must be packed with grease before assembly.

10. After the spindle nut is tightened, the dust cap is tapped on.

11. Tim slides the caliper into position.

12. Using a wrench, Tim tightens the caliper.