MORE POWER? BETTER SOUND? OF CORSA!
July 20, 2023
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Spotlighter
34 Expert Restoration Tips for Classic Car Enthusiasts
Pro techniques to elevate your car build while saving time and avoiding costly mistakes.
Every detail matters when it comes to restoring or customizing a vehicle. Whether you're smoothing out seams, fine-tuning trim, or upgrading outdated systems, the right techniques can make the difference between a show-stopping build and a project that falls flat. We've compiled 34 expert tips to help you refine your restoration skills, sourced directly from the pros at Jeff Lilly Restorations. Dive in and discover actionable advice that will streamline your workflow, enhance your results, and help you achieve the classic car of your dreams.
Author
Jeff Lilly
Words & Photography
1. Sealing Body Seams Before Paint
Just before paint, you will need to caulk the seams on your project’s body. Any visible seams should be done to give a smoother appearance and keep water and rust stains from appearing, especially if you tend to drive in the rain. Apply 3/4 masking tape on the lap side or higher edge about 1/16th from the drop-off edge. On the overlapped portion or lower side, move the tape back 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch. Using 3M 8300 sealer, cut the tip to allow a 1/8th bead. This product flows smoothly and can be finger-stroked with lacquer thinner to make it extra slick. Peel the tape away after one foot at a time is finished. After one hour, you can prime/paint over it.
As seen, the seams are all sealed, providing a very smooth transition from each panel. Once all is sprayed and assembled, it will look great.
2. Preventing Mess with Dynamat
When installing Dynamat to sound-deaden your ride, place aluminum tape on all the overlaps “available from any hardware store.” This will keep the sticky black butyl from getting on your clothing/skin while working inside the vehicle, especially if it will be several weeks before the carpet is installed.
As seen, the seams are all sealed, providing a very smooth transition from each panel. Once all is sprayed and assembled, it will look great.
3. Protecting Inner Panels During Paint Stripping
During paint stripping, use aluminum foil tape to seal off the inner panel from the outer. This will keep the old paint and stripper from entering the inner structure and becoming trapped, causing a big problem later on during refinishing. In addition, place it over any holes. Simply take a Scotch-Brite disc on an angle grinder to clean all the paint off the edges down to the bare metal where the tape covered it to finish the process.
4. Protecting A/C Components During Mock-Up
When mocking up components such as this A/C box, cover the inlets and outlets with tape to keep dust and grinding grit from entering the chamber. It is very difficult to remove all debris once it gets into such parts.
5. Utilizing Leftover Exhaust Tubing for Heater Boxes
Simple things like leftover exhaust tubing with various bends/radii will provide the proper exit in the best direction on Heater Boxes and A/C ducts when trying to run through tight areas up under the dash.
6. Ensuring Wheel Opening Perfection
As seen on this body-worked fender, masking paper was taped behind it. This not only provides cleanliness during priming but allows you to see how perfect your wheel opening is when standing back 5-10 feet. It eliminates your eyes from trying to focus on too many areas at once for the ultimate inspection.
7. Fitting Metal Trim Before Chroming
It is best to fit all the metal trim in its copper state before final nickel and chrome is done. This is the last time you will be able to correct any fit problems. Most platers over-grind and tend to tweak the parts a bit during preparation, and being they do not have the car in front of them to check the fit, you can correct any areas you are not happy with at this time.
8. Masking the Car During Final Polishing
During final polishing, mask the entire car with plastic and tape all the gaps to avoid polishing compounds from entering in and under trim gaps etc.
9. Stabilizing Small Parts During Painting
When painting small parts, we recommend using 1/8th to 1/4 inch hooks to stabilize the parts. Notice the hooks are taped at the top of the rack as this keeps them from swaying during the force of air from the spray gun, allowing a smooth paint job.
10. Strengthening Wavy Panel Edges
Often, the edge of a panel will be wavy or unstable compared to the center, especially on open panels that are not folded back. The use of a MIG welder to spot a few areas and then cool with a wet rag will stiffen the panel just enough. Simply grind them back down slowly to the surface before bodywork and priming.
11. Buffing Stainless Trim Parts Without Damage
When buffing small and/or larger stainless trim parts, use various sizes of wood to bolt or screw them down to eliminate holding the actual part and tweaking it during the natural heat build that occurs.
12. Removing Old Undercoat Easily
Fein built the first known power tool in the late 1800s, and they are still at it today. This oscillating tool with a scraper attachment removes old undercoat off easily. Save your palms from carpal tunnel.
13. Custom Fitting Factory Door Panels
When installing factory parts such as this interior door panel, they will more than likely not fit well. Hold the panel up to your door and simply mark the panel where it needs trimming, then pull back the material from around the backside and trim off the excess. Then rewrap and glue for a custom-fit door panel.
14. Retrofitting A/C with Stock Dash Controls
On older vehicles where you want to upgrade the A/C system but retain stock dash controls, attach the new electronic actuators by fabricating a bracket and change the arm out to accept the original cable system.
15. Converting Pot Metal Studs for Trim
Some trim, such as this stainless steel molding, came with pot metal studs that accepted thread-cutting nuts, which often slip when tightened. Using the proper thread-cutting die, you can change them over into a regular threaded nut to avoid snapping off the studs during assembly if they were too tight and also avoid a loose molding when the thread-cutting nuts have already cut too many grooves on the stud.
16. Shipping Rare Parts Safely
During shipping of rare parts, always use wooden crates with foam and peanuts to keep them safe. I am not going to insinuate or call anyone by name, but those people wearing brown shorts can ruin irreplaceable parts, so be extra cautious and spend the money to transport right.
17. Piloting Holes for Side Window Tracks
Once you have your side window glass fitting the way you like during initial disassembly or during the bodywork phase, always pilot drill the inside doors and quarter panels to the window tracks with a 1/8th bit for easy alignment during final assembly.
18. Documenting Factory Rubber Seal Profiles
During disassembly, make a note on how the factory rubber seals were put on with the profile as seen. Many shop manuals do not show you this, and it can mess up the fit of your doors and deck lid if incorrect.
19. Removing Anodizing from Aluminum Parts
Eastwood has an anodize remover for aluminum parts and fittings. No need to have them sent out anymore. It works well when you keep it soaked.
20. Preparing Hood Springs for Finishing
When it is time to prep hood springs, use 80-120 grit Scotch-Brite discs to take out small dings and scratches. Then glass bead blast them and apply silver cad plating for a nice look.
21. Giving Bolts a Satin Finish
Stainless or plated bolts can have a nice satin finish by chucking them up in a drill and running them over a gray fine scuff pad.
22. Creating Bolt Holders for Painting
To blast and paint fasteners efficiently, fab bolt holders. Take some 2-inch wide, 1/8-inch thick strap material and weld different-sized nuts in a row. This makes an excellent holder and speeds up the process.
23. Using Flexible Tape for Chrome Trim
Blue fine-line tape is very flexible and works great for masking chrome trim parts with concave and convex curves during painting.
24. Polishing and Painting Moldings
On this two-step tip, polish the outer edges of the moldings as needed. For the centers that need painting, perform any required bodywork because neither glossy nor satin paints will cover dings.

Use Slick Sand primer by Evercoat and brush it onto the spots. Allow it to dry for 45 minutes, then block sand all ripples out. Mask the moldings off, and they will be ready to paint. Apply Ditzler’s epoxy primer for adhesion, followed by the desired topcoat.
As seen, the seams are all sealed, providing a very smooth transition from each panel. Once all is sprayed and assembled, it will look great.
25. Protecting Moldings During Tweaking
When tweaking moldings, always use a wide-blade plastic stick or spreader. Avoid using metal tools, as they can damage the moldings.
26. Restoring Taillight Plastic
Finesse by 3M works great for removing scratches from taillight plastic.
27. Choosing the Right Rubber Mallet
The right tool for the job is crucial. Jack uses a rubber hammer with a 60-durometer rating, which is soft enough to prevent damage to small trim but hard enough to drive it on. Always consider “durometer,” which indicates the hardness of the rubber.
28. Breaking in Rubber Seals During Final Assembly
To break in rubber seals at final assembly, use a small binder strap between the doors. Install J-hooks to the door by drilling a small 1/4-inch hole at the bottom or top of the door, depending on where the rubber is tightest. Attach the binder and adjust it incrementally every two to three days. Remove the striker during this process to eliminate restrictions. Once the doors close easily, reinstall the striker.
29. Using a Flow Pencil for Emblem Detailing
A flow pencil works great for painting emblems cleanly between the lines.
30. Adjusting Heater Plenums and Air Vents
If a heater plenum hits an upgraded speaker system, cut away the interfering section.
Use a piece of ABS plastic cut to fit and shape it with a heat gun.
ABS adheres well to the old box, forming a clearance while maintaining airflow to the defroster.
31. Reshaping Plastic Trim
Most plastic on a car or truck’s body can be reshaped using a heat gun. For example, overly curved kick panel wind lace can be tweaked. Heat it, place it within 30 seconds, and hold it in place while it cools for a precise fit.
32. Correcting Header Fitment
Headers often do not fit correctly. Check them with a straight edge before coating and installation. If needed, weld on the lower bead and file it to level. Ensure the gasket matches the header and the heads. Tighten the headers, remove the gasket, and check alignment to avoid sealing issues.
33. Trimming Side Dash Pieces for Perfect Fit
Above the dash pad on each corner, side trim often doesn’t fit well. Mark the area and use a mini belt sander to remove the excess metal for a precise fit.
34. Verifying Cable Thickness
With rising copper prices, be selective when choosing large cables for battery and stereo leads. Some manufacturers use extra-thick plastic coatings to make the cable appear correct, but the copper inside may be undersized. Always ask for a sample or ensure the cable is gauged correctly before purchasing.
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