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THE AUTO BUILDER
Featured
SUPERBIRD
When we look back over the past decades and all the cars that have benefited from the creative mastery of super rodding, we should consider ourselves lucky. After all, just about every car we’ve ever dreamed about has found new life through the vision of today’s enthusiastic owners and builders. It’s like being a kid in a candy store and having a pocketful of money—it’s all within reach and we just can’t get enough. Still, there are a few favorites that are often overlooked, which has many of us asking—why?
Inversely Proporsional
One of the most misunderstood performance components on any engine has to be the camshaft, or camshafts in the case of our overhead-cam 4.6-liter Ford engine. The difficulty is only compounded when you add forced induction to the mix. From an anatomical standpoint, the camshaft can be likened to the brain, as the cam profile determines how effectively (when and where) breathing takes place.
Shade-Tree 1.6.
Okay, we weren’t quite that naive about what we read regarding upgrading to 1.6 rockers on our small-block Chevy for the first time, but it was close.
The engine in question was a decent runner with 30,000 miles on the mild-performance rebuild. The rebuilt engine was purchased used, and among its selling points were 0.030-over 9.5:1 pistons, moly rings, 1.5 roller rockers, a Performer RPM intake and a brand-new Holley 750cfm carburetor. The cam wasn’t a perfect match to the torque converter used in the previous installation nor was the final-drive gear ratio. As a result, the owner planned on stepping down on the cam chart to a Comp 286H-10 cam, which came with the engine in its original box. Also included were a brand-new factory Z28 oil pan and a factory timing chain cover to replace the cheap chrome pieces. For $300, the engine package was a deal, and one we couldn’t pass up. We sold the aforementioned chrome pieces and matching valve covers for $50, getting us the engine at the bargain price of $250, and we still had the new cam and lifters on our shelf.
Spotlighter
OUT WITH THE OLD, IN WITH THE NEW
Installing A K20 Into a DC2 Integra
Honda did the right thing in refreshing the looks of the aging DC2 Integra platform, but somewhere along the retooling process, the terrific driving experience for which the Integra was known was lost somewhere. The Integra Type-R was a no-frills, high-performance sport compact that bordered on being a street-legal racecar, but without the loud exhaust or kidney-bruising ride; the RSX Type-S just doesn’t have the feel that the older Integra had—instead of being razor sharp and agile, the RSX feels numbed and subdued by comparison.
Author
Sean L. Greene
Photos: Jim Edwards
The Evolution of the Integra: Gains and Losses
I’ll have to be honest, I’m not particularly fond of the DC5 Integra, otherwise known as the Acura RSX here in America. It’s a fine-looking, well-built car, and it does have its strong points, but if you’ve ever driven a stock Integra Type-R and then hopped behind the wheel of an RSX Type-S, you immediately noticed a substantial difference in how the car feels. Honda did the right thing in refreshing the looks of the aging DC2 Integra platform, but somewhere along the retooling process, the terrific driving experience for which the Integra was known was lost somewhere. The Integra Type-R was a no-frills, high-performance sport compact that bordered on being a street-legal racecar, but without the loud exhaust or kidney-bruising ride; the RSX Type-S just doesn’t have the feel that the older Integra had—instead of being razor-sharp and agile, the RSX feels numbed and subdued by comparison.
Mixed Feelings About the RSX
Now before you RSX freakos take offense, understand that when I say I’m not particularly fond of the RSX, that doesn’t mean I flat-out don’t like it. Instead, I’m rather torn since the K20 engine is not only technologically more advanced in its design, but it also outperforms the now-discontinued B-series engine. So a small compromise has been made—out goes the wishbone suspension for a McPherson setup, and in goes the more potent K20 with i-VTEC, which makes for a more flexible engine. Be honest, wouldn’t you rather have the hot looks of the RSX Type-S and the no-holds-barred feel of the old Type-R? Of course you would, and so would I.
A Fusion of Performance and Handling
Well, fortunately for us, some enthusiasts aren’t willing to compromise either when it comes to performance—whether it’s power or handling. The owner of this Integra Type-R decided that he wanted the power of the 210hp K20 engine (from the RSX Type-S) but wanted to retain the great handling and feel of his Integra Type-R. The problem is that the engine isn’t a drop-in solution like the older B-series engine. One of the problems is the transaxle is on the right side of the engine as opposed to being on the left side, as with the B-series configuration. This is due to the fact that the K-series engines spin clockwise instead of counterclockwise, as do the old B-series engines. This obviously poses some problems when swapping into an older chassis like the DC2 Integra.
The Role of Aftermarket Support
Fortunately, the K-series engine has been around long enough for the performance aftermarket to come up with an engine swap solution for those interested in such a swap (installing a K-series engine into a Civic or Integra). Hasport Performance has been producing engine-swapping kits and products, including engine mounts, wiring harnesses, and other swap-related products for Hondas for a very long time, and they wasted no time coming out with a product that applies to the K-series engine. The newly released EGK1 engine mount kit for the ’92-’95 Civic and ’94-’01 Integra comes with a header that’s specifically designed for this swap and a wiring kit required for interfacing with the older chassis’ electrical system. This swap isn’t a particularly easy one, but it’s well worth the effort, and with the amount of aftermarket performance products that are continuously being developed for the K-series, this swap is becoming more common among Honda enthusiasts.
A Meeting of Two Worlds
Follow along to see what is involved in installing a K20 engine into a DC2 Integra. You will find that it’s a pleasant meeting of two different worlds.
1. The stock engine was removed from the Integra prior to the installation of the K20 engine. The stock transmission mount is removed, and the Hasport engine mount is bolted to the passenger’s side of the engine compartment.
2. The beauty of the Hasport engine mount system is that it’s a true bolt-on system; once the rear engine mount is removed, the Hasport unit bolts in without a fuss.
3. What was originally an engine mount has been converted to a transmission mount with the Hasport hardware.
4. The RSX and EP Civics no longer use a hydraulic power-steering rack like most cars, but rather an electric power-assist steering system. The K20 engine has no provisions for a power-steering pump, so the inlet and outlet on the Integra steering rack is looped, which eliminates power steering altogether.
5. This piece of hardware is mounted to the K20 transmission and will be bolted onto the mount on the driver’s side of the engine compartment.
6. The idler pulley is removed prior to installing the engine to make things easier.
7. The Integra is lowered onto the engine; now the mounts starting with the left side can be bolted up.
8. Once that’s completed it’s onto the transmission mount.
9. The last mount to be buttoned up is the rear engine/transmission mount. This is a little tougher to get to, but not impossible.
10. An impact gun is used to tighten all the nuts on the Hasport mounts.
11. Voilà! The installation is complete, right? Well, not really. There’s more work to be done.
12. The stock wiring harness is fed through the firewall where the Hasport engine harness will be connected eventually.
13. Some modifications are made to the wiring leading to the stock connectors. The Hasport harness will plug right in as if it were stock.
14. This is where technician’s wiring skills will be put to the test. Anyone can wire an engine, but it’s the execution and planning that makes the difference between a good job and a botched attempt.
15. Once the harness leading to the ECU is completed, it’s taped up and fed through the firewall to the interior while using the stock rubber grommet.
16. What you see here is a combination of the stock and Hasport harnesses that need to be sorted and cleaned before progressing on to other areas of the installation. This is a time-consuming but necessary process.
17. The K20 ECU is plugged in once the wiring harness has been sorted out.
18. A plastic casing on the K20 wiring on the front of the engine is removed. The wiring will be cleaned and rerouted shortly.
19. Small details, like using wire loom and cable clamps, not only make your installation look neat, but are also easier to service.
20. You can see here that the wiring leading to things such as the starter and alternator is easier to identify and service with the plastic casing removed.
21. The stock radiator will be reused, but one of the fans must be removed in order to clear the plenum on the intake manifold.
22. The fan can be mounted on the front of the radiator and wired as a pusher fan.
23. The coolant temperature sensors need to be plumbed into the upper coolant hose coming from the radiator. This is where the technician chose to install the sensors.
24. A small piece of aluminum pipe was cut, and a block of aluminum was TIG welded on, drilled and tapped for the sensors.
25. An appropriately sized section of the hose is removed, and the sensor adaptor is installed.
26. Here’s another potential problem; the K20 engine uses a non-return fuel system while the chassis has a return fuel system. While the entire fuel system could be converted to non-return, it would be costly and unnecessary. Instead, a line is run off the end of the fuel rail that will connect to a fuel pressure regulator.
27. A high-quality adjustable fuel pressure regulator such as this one should be used since the B-series isn’t compatible with this application.
28. A braided stainless-covered rubber hose with Earl fitting is connected to the stock fuel filter mounted on the firewall.
29. Now that the engine is installed and nearly completed, an idler pulley from a Honda Civic Si is bolted on the engine.
30. This is a very important step in every K20 engine swap; every ground strap must be properly grounded in order for the engine to operate properly.
31. The K20 engine and transmission use cable shift linkage whereas the Integra uses rods. The technician used a shifter and linkage assembly from a Honda Accord, which was not a bolt-in affair, to say the least, but it works like a charm.
32. With the transmission now on the opposite side of the car, the stock driveshafts are incompatible with the new setup. A pair of driveshafts specific to this type of swap was ordered from Axle System Inc. In the past, in order to make this swap work you had to custom-make your own axles, but this product makes the entire process easier.
33. The finishing touch to the installation is the Hasport header. Not only is this a required piece of equipment, but it will also free some power in the process.
34. One last note--the ABS system was deleted from this installation because required some additional plumbing work on the brake lines. You can hardly tell anything was done in this photo.
ARTICLE SOURCES
Hasport Performance
2849 South 44th Street
Phoenix, AZ 85040
(602) 470-0065
ETD Racing - CLOSED
1111 Gorham St, Unit #12
Newmarket, ON L3Y 7V1
(905) 953-9260
