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24 PERFECT PARTS AND TIPS

Upgrade Ideas for a Trouble-Free Cruiser

Are you driving an old truck, or perhaps you are driving a newer, modified pickup that is being upgraded as you go? Either way, both present their own set of challenges, which when not addressed, will turn normal operation into a nightmarish chore. No one enjoys breaking down along the side the road, so you do what you can to favorably stack the odds against such breakdowns. Truth is you do this by eliminating the simple oversights and by selecting the right parts that enhance the performance and operation of your daily driver.

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Josh Kaylor

Photos by The Auto Builder Staff

Straightforward Upgrades for Better Performance

To help in this area, we’ve compiled a very straightforward list of things to do that will not only prove to be handy DIY projects, but will provide you with even more ideas for you to ponder over to improve upon many areas of your own ride. Many ’60s, ’70s and even ’80sera pickups are still running outdated lighting, have no mirrors, and many of the original parts can leave you broken down stranded, creating dependability problems down the road, not to mention the basic inconvenience of having to deal with such old technology in a much more hectic driving environment. This couldn’t be more true if that pickup in question happens to be your only vehicle and represents your daily transportation.

Address Old Wiring and Cooling Systems

To help guard against this happening to you, consider checking out all old wiring, updating any ratty wiring in your truck, loose connections and especially bad grounds. There’s a lot to check from end to end, but the wiring in these old trucks is very basic and easy to repair and upgrade. The same holds true for the cooling system.

Understand that critical cooling and lubricating fluids are often overlooked yet all are vital for a dependable running truck of any vintage. What’s more, any of this easily fits within the constraints of most budgets, but it’s recommended that you check over the important considerations that might require your attention and do this before taking off on an extended trip.

Improve Visibility and Safety Features

Can you see the guy behind you? Can he see you? Having a set of side mirrors and a rearview mirror that adjusts for your physical requirements and looks good enables you to more quickly see what’s around you without having to stick your head out the window. Even if you are into a smooth look, there are outside mirrors that have the look and are less obvious without the chrome.

In addition, items such as seat belts, which many older trucks were never equipped with, can save lives. These older trucks also were never equipped with structural side impact bracing, offering you little in the way of protection in the event of an accident, so buckle up. Safety is a much more important consideration nowadays, one that is overlooked all too often for the sake of style. Consider safety just another type of performance, and in much the same manner, as you would upgrade a set of wheels and larger tires or install four-wheel disc brakes.

Build a Checklist for Upgrades

This list includes safety items, driveline components and general operational upgrades, all manner of accessories and a few added bonuses you would be well advised to add to your consideration when building any daily driver. This holds true for updating that much-neglected pickup sitting in your driveway, and if you are like us, you must face such a project with budget limitations. The upside is that nothing on this list is an immediate necessity; you can check off these items or create your own checklist as you work your way through the list. Attention to these areas is one way to make driving your classic truck a lot more comfortable and far more enjoyable.

Focus on Fun and Avoidable Issues

Many service items, modifications and upgrades will fit into your budget as you go, just make your own priority list to allow for the quick and easy modifications. The bottom line is that this is about having fun, so do what you can to avoid those little hiccups. Also, one upgrade will lead to another, so that in the end you find yourself spending the majority of your time driving the truck and having fun, not having to work on it late into the night, or worse yet, alongside the road because something minor was broken or overlooked. Check it out, and use the accompanying items to avoid potential problems—you’ll be glad that you did.

Low, But Not Too Low

Lowering your tuck is fine and is advisable, but there’s lower, and then there’s too low. Of course, too low is easily recognized each time you hit a
bad spot in the road, causing your truck to bottom out or dart in one direction or another. When it comes to lowering a daily driver, you should understand that suspension geometry and keeping within the guidelines of factory specs can greatly affect tire wear, not to mention the ride quality and comfort of steering the truck. Lowering any classic truck should be done properly and within the guidelines of the type of original suspension. 

The obvious safety choices for most clas-sics, and even later model trucks is to select a pair of dropped spindles for the front and rear drop blocks. Dropped spindles are a great way to get your truck lowered 2 or 2-1/2 inches without cutting anything, and this doesn’t include using lower front coils. When selecting the proper front coil springs, you want to avoid cut or heated coils, as either can or will  adversely affect spring rate. As you wish to retain proper geometry without sacrificing your tires to the road gods, go with engineered parts like lowered spindles that are made to work with the suspension you have. Best of all, these choices are relatively inexpensive and will save you hundreds in the end and are easily  installed at home. There is no need to sacrifice  ride quality for looks or giving up the life expectancy of your new tires. 

Third Brake Light

Another item that is not considered mandatory but adds a certain degree of increased safety is the addition of a third rear brake light. This is especially effective if you’ve added a custom rolled rear pan that mounts your taillights lower, reducing visibility in tight traffic. There are a few different mounting locations for these third rear brake lights, including the installation in the tailgate itself or more typically up high in the rear of the cab. Of course, the easiest is the rear window style, which is available in both bolt-on and glue-on designs. This type of third rear brake light sim-ply mounts in the rear glass area, and can be spliced into the rear light harness. They are very affordable and can save you both time and money parts and installation wise, not to men-tion the degree of safety it adds.

Cool Cruising

Ok, we agree that this is not a necessity, but face it, driving around in the hot sum-mer sun sans air conditioning is no one’s idea of fun, no matter how basic you are try-ing to be. If you are planning the build of a classic or even a stripped late-model not equipped with A/C, not having A/C will soon grow from a small to a large incon-venience depending upon how much you use the truck. Having A/C makes driving a custom hot rod so much more fun, and why not? The air can be hidden and does not need to distract from the statement you are making with your truck style. With the number of available kits on the market, installing air on any pickup can be reasonable. You can figure about $500 for some kits, and that’s a complete bolt-in kit that you can install and will only need charging. Because these are climate systems, they will keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. And since many heaters are sub-par in these trucks, it seems a perfect solution to an all-year long problem.

Leak Free

One of the most important concerns when building any daily driver is comfort. If the truck is not comfortable, you will not drive it, and if bad, dry rotted door seals or windshield gaskets and floppy vent window rubber contribute to that less-than-ideal driving experience, these only add to the reasons why you don’t drive your daily driver over the long haul. Loud whistling and water damage inside the cab is not fun, but enjoying a leak-free glass environment with an undamaged stereo and great-smelling carpet and door panels that are not water damaged is fun. 

As you may be painfully aware, during the winter months, bad door seals really show up as your heater valiantly works overtime to keep up with the draft, but it’s a losing proposition. There are several companies like Steele Rubber, which offer weatherstrip-ping kits and window and door deal products that are not only very affordable, you can install them at home in no time. These are the very products that will greatly affect your personal experience with your truck, as they can reduce squeaks and whistles, and above all, create a leak-free environment for a more comfortable daily driver.

Tonneau Cover

This is an obvious one, but we couldn’t leave it out, as it’s so important for a daily driver. While running errands, you are inevitably faced with leaving goods in the truck while completing those chores. It’s inconvenient and not always possible to store your recently purchased items in the front seat to prevent theft. If you have something more valuable, then you are only inviting a thief to break into your truck, taking the item and quickly fleeing the scene. 

However, a tonneau cover, while a quick fix, does not always fit the style of truck. A tonneau cover will allows for a safe, convenient place to store your items, but not all tonneaus provide much of a theft deter-rent. A good one, particularly those sliding styles offer the added bonus of keeping any tools, wood or even groceries dry in the event of a sudden summer shower. Tonneau covers not only have the ability to keep the inside of your bed safe and dry but they also help fuel mileage on the highway by adding a cover over the low pressure area of a pickup.

There are two popular types of tonneau covers that are regularly used, fiberglass and soft roll up, and you’ll find some aluminum and composite material covers. The variety of configurations are almost as wide as the materials these tops are made of, and many offer great new convenience items that will add to the satisfaction of ownership. The list is far too long to include here, so shop around and find the tonneau cover that best fits your truck and will provide you all the convenience its innovative design promises.

Rubber Re-Do

Not only is the weatherstripping of the cab important, but keeping the chassis rubber in good shape is also important. Unfortunately, this is one of the most overlooked areas on the chassis—the bushings, the bump stops and the dust boots. It’s kind of like out of sight, out of mind when you are dealing with lowering a truck and adding low-profile tires with less sidewall, maintaining what you have or installing new rubber should be done during the build. These items should also be at the top of the maintenance list, as the bushings found throughout the chassis play a major role in how the truck rides, how it steers and even handles over bumps and through turns. Worn bushings can contribute to irregular tire wear and poor handling, and this doesn’t begin to address the squeaks and rattles. Installing new bushings every so often will ensure your truck performs and that it drives as it is supposed to.

Behind you!

Mirrors are good, we’d even say a must, and we can say that based on our own experience of driving a much-modified classic without them for far too long. Not only is it uncomfort-able and inconvenient, it’s not a safe bet. You shouldn’t play in traffic without a set of good-looking, functional mirrors. Our advice is to do the research to find the mirrors that would be ideal on your truck, given the mounting location(s) you’ve provided. There are tons of choices and not all the shapes and/or sizes you choose will work, you need to see how it fits the contours and seating arrangement and if the reflections are easily within eye sight. 

We know that it’s important to see behind us, so why avoid it—we need right- and left-side mirrors, so you need to find a set that fits and looks like they belong; try stockers, sport mirrors, those from sporty cars, and all sorts of truck-style mirrors are now available that may have the additional arm length to fit your installation. The OEs have spent big money designing mirrors for all sorts of applications, you just need to find one that fits yours or look to the aftermarket. 

Buckle Up

Since safety is one of our primary concerns when building a daily driver, seat belts should always be incor-porated into the build. Incorporating a good, quali-ty set of lap belts or three-point belts from a late-model truck into your clas-sic truck should be a priority, especially when we are talking about a device designed to save lives. As cool as it looks to have a super sanitary interior, a sanitized and smoothed interior should never be compromised by not properly installing seat belts into your truck. 

Early truck interiors are crude by today’s standards, and in the event of an accident, the steel in these interiors and the massive steering wheel can cause considerable carnage. All the steel in these trucks also makes installing a nice set of lap belts a simple bolt-in that takes no more than an hour to install. The mounting lugs can easily be bolted directly to the floor with little or no problems. 

Quiet Down

Many early trucks never offered plush interiors, so they didn’t include layers of sound deadening material to dampen out noise and vibrations from inside the cab. These were work trucks, and it was not until the ’60s that the OEs even began installing tar insulation on the floors and firewall and dash insulators to help reduce cab noise and heat. The job of this heavy material was to also reduce vibra-tions and the number of squeaks throughout the cab. The results were only so-so. 

If you plan on building a daily driver and have installed a rather loud exhaust or are experiencing warm floor and toe boards then installing an insulator and/or sound deadening material is a good idea. If your truck is not stock, then you often have to take non-stock solutions to whatever situations were created and need to be addressed. There are a number of manufacturers, such as QuietRide Solutions, which offers molded firewall insula-tors as well as complete acoustic solutions that are model specific and are designed as an exact fit for your truck. Noisy rides are a thing of the past, there’s just no excuse any longer, espe-cially for a truck that is to be driven every day. 

6-12

For all you early guys who swear on pre-’57 trucks, don’t you think it’s about time to changeover that original six-volt system to a 12-volt? While the points to HEI swap is a little more affordable, swapping over the early six-volt systems to the later 12-volt can be a little more time consuming and expensive, but the advantages are numerous. 

Up until 1955, GM used a six-volt electrical system, while Ford introduced its 12-volt system in 1956. Swapping to a 12-volt system requires a later model alternator or generator conversion, ignition upgrade and several resistors and upgrades for the accessories, such as the horn and headlights. By upgrading to 12 volts, the performance of the headlights, heat and other accessories will be greatly improved, not to mention greatly improve the day-to-day reliability of the truck.

What’s the Point? 

One of the oldest modifications for a daily driver, especially those equipped with a small-block Chevy points is an HEI upgrade for the distributor. Anyone with experience dealing with a points distributor and external coil knows that while they do work, they are a little unreliable and require some maintenance. Also, setting the points can be troublesome, and using a matchbook to set the points will not always work.

Making this swap is not hard and is very affordable and the gains are tremendous. The HEI-style distributors utilize an in-cap coil and are electronically controlled to produce high amounts of spark for a cleaner, more efficient burn. The swap requires an HEI distributor, which can be purchased new for around $100, a simple plug adapter and a new set of plug wires. Overall swap time for the distributor usually takes about two hours but once you have made the swap, you will be glad that you did. 

Cup Holders

While this is one of the more obscure mods, it is still very important, especially if you are building a true daily driver. We’re talking convenience here, not performance, but because only select models before the late ’80s ever received cup holders, we’ve gone a long time without them. But these are different times and cup holders are very worthwhile. Installing a set of cupholders into most any truck nowadays is quite a simple task, and can be done with off-the-shelf Wal-Mart items, a trick aftermarket billet flip-out holder, or whatever you choose to do, including morphing in an OE assembly from a car or truck installation that you like. You can let your imagination take over from here.

Can You See Me Now?

Upgrading your headlights is necessary for today’s fast-paced driving, especially if you are still using the old sealed beam headlights. Upgrading to the more modern halogen headlights usually results in a 25-percent gain in lighting, which is a much needed addition, especially in a vintage car or truck that have less than impressive lighting to begin with. Also upgrading your taillights to the more modern LED units will help improve your risks of not being rear-ended, a problem that is becoming more prevalent nowadays. Older trucks are known for having small or even a single taillight, so upgrading the bulb to a high-intensity bulb is the first upgrade to be considered, or swap out the internals for the new LED lights which dramatically increase vis-ibility in traffic when it is most needed. One of the more common upgrades are adding driving lights to the front of your truck, they add more visibility for when you need it and is but another safety item that is considered a positive upgrade for any daily driver. 

Grab a Chair

A personal pet peeve for any daily driver is having a good seat. Driving around on anything less is not fun, nor is it comfortable. Since this is where you spend 99 percent of your time, it makes sense to invest in a seat, or at the very least new foam and good-looking, well-wearing cover. What you don’t need are springs trying to burst through or no seat support for the overall size of the driver. If the seat is wrong, source out a new bench or works in specific models? Take a walk though the even bucket seats. They are readily available from junkyard and test out several seats until you find most any junkyard and, if you shop right, can offer one that fits your plan and liking. A personal a quick, simple solution. favorite for the ’67-’72 Chevy is the late-model.

 To find the right one, take several measure- ’88-’98 GM bench seat. It fits the truck perfectly ments and talk to various truck owners who drive and the shape is great. You can usually find these their truck regularly. What have they found that seats for $75 to $150 at the local wrecking yard. 

Tunes

Many pickups well into the ’70s and ’80s were never equipped with even a simple factory radio, and if you happen to own of these stripped trucks, an upgrade is relatively easy and only as expensive as your taste in sound. Certainly having a stereo and CD player in your daily driver is now consid-ered essential, the new units will also accept your iPod. And since CD players and MP3 technology accommodate a CD/MP3 player. As for speakers, were introduced much later, even if your truck is you need a quality pair of 6x9s or a pair of dual stereo equipped, it’s probably outdated. But thanks speaker 6x9s with small tweeters built into the to the simplicity of trucks, especially beneath the speakers. Or you can mount tweeters higher up in dash, installing a CD/MP3 player is a simple cut- the dash or A-pillar, and this will usually suffice for and-slide installation. Although many enthusiasts a small cab installation. For an even better sound, do not approve of cutting into the dash, if your but you give up the much needed room, you can dash is not already cut, and you don’t wish to cut mount a sub-woofer and crossover amp under or it, you can adapt an overhead console, or an behind the seat for a much improved sound, and extension or center console under the dash and/or of course, the limit of what you do is strictly up to between the seat (if you have bucket seats) to your sound expectations. 

Two Are Better Than One

Up until 1967, and even later for Ford as well as many other trucks, the brakes operated off a single pot master cylinder. Not a good idea, and it’s not recommended that you drive your truck with this overly simplistic system. In the event of a leaking wheel cylinder or a broken brake line, the truck could have total brake failure. The single system mas-ter cylinder feeds fluid to both the front and rear brake sys-tems. The new dual master cylinders provide two separate reservoirs, one for the front and one for the rear. 

Many truck owners have replaced their single pot master cylinder, so it’s likely your truck has been upgraded, but if not, you need to do it. Swapping over to a dual master cylin-der and even a brake booster is a great way to improve the driveability and safety of the truck. Installing a booster dur-ing your master cylinder swap will help improve stopping power, not to mention requiring less force on the pedal. Depending upon the model, there are only minor changes that need to be made to residual valves and so on, so make sure whoever is doing the swap understands the differences between the systems, where the brake line routing needs to go, and what needs to be included within the system.

Fume Free

In the early days of truck fuel tanks being located beneath the dash (in the cowl area of all places) or under the seat or behind the seat, out-side-the-cab fuel tanks are the only way to go. Today, most fuel tanks are located under the bed and away from front and rear collisions. They are made from special coated steel or durable poly to reduce the chance of fire and gas fumes are no longer associated with a fill up inside the cab. 

Relocating your fuel tank to somewhere along the frame is an excel-lent idea for all daily driven trucks. This will not only remove the cab fume problem, but will generally increase fuel capacity—depending on the tank you choose to use—and will be safer in the event of a bad accident. There are several different tanks on the market, and they are avail-able in a variety of materials, including stainless, aluminum and poly (molded plastic). See what best fits your installation

Keep It Cool

Since daily driven pickups are forced to endure the same heat stress that new high-tech cooling systems see, updating your fan and radiator combo is generally a must. Up into the mid ’70s and even the ’80s, pickup trucks were usually equipped with a standard radiator and a mechanical fan. And while this worked with those stock engines back then, today’s stop-and-go traffic will put huge demands on a warmed over engine. Most common upgrades include the swap from a mechanical fan to an electric one, for increased cooling when it’s needed, however, even the best electric fan won’t help when you are driving, and the radi-ator is not handling the cooling demands of the engine. Swapping your stock two-row radiator for a new four-core aluminum radiator will not only help keep your truck cool while cruising, once you have swapped your outdated mechanical fan for an adequate electric one, the combination is sure to handle all of your cooling needs.

A+ Rubber

One of the most important components on any daily driver are the tires. They are the only four contact areas that keep the truck firmly planted on the ground and are what provides stop-and-go traction. Even if you have swapped out your old drum brakes for disc brakes and added a booster and dual master cylinder, it’s possible that your truck still seems a little skittish on hard braking. That is because the tires stop the truck, not the brakes, and if the stopping force exceeds the capability of the tires, then you will slide. The place to start is to have a good set of tires, the larger that fit and look good, the better. Just because this is to be your driver doesn’t mean you should purchase what is on sale—buy what’s best for the truck. 

Older trucks have early technology and no ABS, so lots of water on the road or a quick stop and you could find yourself slipping and sliding or worse. Select a good set of tires of the latest technology that fit, and this is especially important if you plan to rack up a lot of miles on this truck. Here you will be dealing with rain, sleet or snow and conditions that are beyond your control. Search the tire ratings and loads and make comparisons to find the size and load-carrying tire that best suits your application.

Breathe Easier 

Gone are the days of the oil-bath air cleaner, and in its place are hundreds of nano-filters and high-tech air cleaner assemblies. Since the plan is to drive the truck everyday, having a good air filter assembly is important, if not vital. The goal of properly prepping the truck is to prevent breakdowns and problems on the road, and the place to start is to ensure that your engine breathes as it is intended to do. 

Over the years, paper filters gave way to oil-based filters like the pop-ular K&N filter, and now the latest introduction is our favorite: the syn-thetic oil-free filters from a number of manufacturers. The synthetic air filters require you to simply remove them, shake or blow them from the inside out to free up the debris and reinstall. They are easy to use and will keep your engine running smooth. 

Once your engine has taken in fresh air, mixed with fuel, burnt and ready to be evacuated, will your exhaust be up to the challenge? While not a necessity, this is also the time we think it wise to pick a hot rod item—a free-flowing exhaust and a great-sounding muffler. This goes hand in hand with building a cool daily driver. It doesn’t mean that you must have an extremely loud, resonating exhaust, only that a cool-sounding exhaust note is generally associated with a system of low-back pressure. You can also add a trick set of tips, which is always cool. And if you are lucky and select the right system, you can even add a little power to your pickup while turning heads. 

Synthetics

For a number of years, synthetic oils have become increasingly popular, as it’s a more readily accepted fact that they help boost fuel mileage, add longer life to internal engine components and in certain engine applications, actually increase horse-power. However, while some of these benefits are proven over time, what’s also key is that synthetic oil will add extra protection across a variety of conditions for a daily driver. As synthetics are engineered with additive packages that not only help lubricate in challenging situations, they are also formulated to revitalize seals and are engineered to with-stand harsh heat conditions without breakdowns like other non-synthetic oils. Synthetics, while costing more initially, allow for longer oil change intervals, thus reducing the number of times you need to change your oil. Synthetics are available for everything, and in a variety of forms: grease, oil, transmission fluid and even rearend gear lube. 

Gauges

Most early trucks were equipped with idiot warning lights, rather than gauges, even for such vital information like engine oil pressure, engine temperature and the voltage of the engine electrical system. Warning lights are not ideal in any case, other than as backup for regular gauges with direct readout. Operating temperatures are important, especially in a truck that is driven in heavy traffic on a regular basis. Upgrading to direct readout gauges can be accomplished without altering your dash, as engine intel can be easily monitored with an add-on gauge set. Installing new gauges or even retrofitting your existing OE cluster will not only allow you to more closely monitor engine operation, before something goes wrong, but can add a great new look to an early dash. New gauges generally include new sending units, and while some are particular to the gauge itself, be certain to check for compatibility when mixing and matching new gauges. 

Carb to EFI 

One of the more expensive but certainly cool upgrades for an early daily driver is the addition of electronic fuel injection. While not necessarily a power adder, the crispness, increased fuel mileage and smoothness of oper-ation are but some of the reasons why a variety of EFI swaps are presently available. Thanks largely to aftermarket companies like Holley, you do not need an LS series engine if you desire electronic fuel injection, they’ve made it a bolt-on affair. Now, because of all that’s involved, it is on the pricey side, around $1,500-$2,000, but with an average savings of $20 a week on fuel, such an upgrade can quickly pay for itself over time. 

The advantages to electronic fuel injection are endless: instant start-up, better fuel mileage, increased driveability and a more instantaneous flow of power as a result of more precise throttle response has earned such units high marks with daily drivers. There are a few alternatives to EFI, as you can purchase a retro-fit kit for an existing engine or you can purchase a complete engine that includes the sys-tem and computer. These are readily available from most wrecking yards. You can also purchase a simple top end kit or build your own system as your budget allows. Such a system will quickly turn any good running driver into a great driver, as the control of fuel with a mod-ern injection is a far more precise operation compared to a carburetor. 

Ca-ca-cooler

Again, driving your truck in stop-and-go traffic can be hard on components. Engine and under hood heat builds up, cooling sys-tems are severely taxed, and even transmis-sion cooling/lubricating fluids run at higher temperatures, leading to premature break-down and outright failures. These are but some of the primary reasons why careful and regular maintenance is not only recom-mended but considered essential in severe-duty applications. To help keep the trans-mission fluid operating at the recommended temperature, this is more easily accom-plished with the addition of a relatively inexpensive remote-mount cooler. Most such units are easily installed, can be mount-ed in a variety of locations, including the popular location—the front-mount radiator area. When considering the most ideal and convenient install of the transmission oil cooler, the front radiator mount is an ideal location because it allows cool air to pass over the cooling fins. However, if your engine cooling is marginal to begin with, this can add to a further restriction of cool-ing air getting directly to the radiator. It’s often just as simple to install these coolers to framerails, allowing passing undercarriage air to circulate the cooler and cool the fluid.

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