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OFF THE FARM
Witness the evolution of a 1947 Dodge pickup from its days as a humble farm truck to a head-turning street rod. Delve into the meticulous customization, from the Ford 351 Windsor engine to the Air Ride suspension and red leather interior, that elevates this Dodge to a league of its own.
TURNER’S TERROR
How many times have you heard the statement, “If I could just get that one car finished, I could sit back and never build another”? We’ve heard this more times than we care to remember, only to later bump into the same person who mumbled it and learn of one or two more projects under way.
’CUDA HUNT
Craig Hammon is the type of guy who can cherish the best of the old times, while also being able to appreciate the benefits of these new times. This versatility is apparent when one learns not only of his choice of car, but how he came to own it. It seems that Hammon has always wanted a Plymouth ’Cuda. And while this is not an unusual thing in and of itself (we would love to have one, too), when it came time for him to really get serious about buying one, he looked to the Internet. More precisely, Hammon went looking for his dream car on eBay.
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BIG THINGS COME IN SMALL (BLOCK) PACKAGES
You Don’t Need to Buy a New Truck to Get Gen-III V-8 Power: Swapping a Gen-III LS into a Squarebody C-10
The owner of this ’77 Chevy pickup got tired of the performance and poor fuel economy of the truck’s 350 small block, and rather than rebuild the engine, he decided to replace it with something better. If there’s an engine better than a small-block Chevy, it’s one of Chevy’s new Gen-III small-block engines, which include the Vortec truck motors, LS1/LS6, and even the new LS2/LS7.
Author
Will Smith
Photography Courtesy of Street & Performance
Work Trucks and Their Evolution
Work trucks have never been more vital to America’s industrial backbone than they are today. These sturdy, rugged vehicles symbolize the nation’s deep-rooted love for automotive innovation. Many modern trucks now boast luxurious features that can rival even the most opulent cars in today’s market, a testament to the evolution of these workhorses over time. Though many people consider them simply tools of the trade, work trucks are finding their niche in the collector car world.
The ’77 Chevy Pickup Gets an Upgrade
The owner of this ’77 Chevy pickup got tired of the performance and poor fuel economy of the truck’s 350 small block, and rather than rebuild the engine, he decided to replace it with something better. If there’s an engine better than a small-block Chevy, it’s one of Chevy’s new Gen-III small-block engines, which include the Vortec truck motors, LS1/LS6, and even the new LS2/LS7. This new generation of small block offers a variety of benefits compared to earlier small blocks, and it doesn’t matter whether you’re installing the engine in a Camaro or a Cameo—the benefits will be the same.
Modern Engine Benefits
Those benefits begin with increased driveability. A modern fuel-injected motor such as the LS1 offers greater reliability and lower operating costs than carbureted or even early fuel-injected motors. For example, can you imagine leaving the same set of spark plugs in your carbureted motor for 100,000 miles? It’s possible with an LS1, as is the benefit of increased fuel economy, thanks to efficient modern electronics that precisely monitor the volume and velocity of incoming air and accurately release just the right amount of gas from the fuel injectors.
Power, Weight Reduction, and Balance
Although it’s certainly possible to make just as much power as the LS1 makes with a standard small block, the 350 horsepower from a stock LS1 is nothing to take lightly. Your stock truck engine certainly doesn’t produce that kind of power, but it does weigh a whole lot more. Unlike the typical truck engine, the LS1 has aluminum heads and an aluminum block, so it keeps weight to a minimum. There’s no sense in hauling around extra weight, unless it is in the form of a payload. Also, you will not lose out on anything good that weight reduction does for you, such as quicker acceleration, better front to rear weight bias, better handling and improved fuel mileage—and the potential good list continues.
All things considered, the LS1 may be the best balance of reliability, power and economy available in any V-8 engine family currently in production. It’s this balance that makes any LS-series engine a great choice for your truck, because whether you want it for the power, fuel economy, reliability or just the wow factor, it’s a great choice to fit your needs. Because the engine comes in such a small, lightweight package, it will certainly fit any earlier pickup.
The LS1 Swap in Action
Follow along as the guys at Street & Performance swap the tired 350 for a new, Gen-III, LS1.
1. The great thing about a truck is that you can throw your new engine in the bed and deliver it yourself, eliminating freight charges.
2. Here’s a look at the standard small block that Chevy installed in the truck when it was new in ’77. It’s lasted this long, so reliability isn’t a problem, but the LS1 completely outclasses this engine.
3. Pulling a small block from a Chevy of this era is not a tough job. Just disconnect the fuel lines, drain the radiator, unplug the few electrical connections and haul out the motor.
4. This particular LS1 came from an F-body application. The Camaro/Trans Am engines use a different accessory layout compared to the Corvette LS1 engines, so it’s important to know which you have. The biggest giveaway is that the F-body alternator is at the bottom of the engine and the Corvette alternator is on top.
5. These Street & Performance motor mount adapters make installing an LS1 engine a breeze. They act as an adapter between the engine block’s mounting location and a stock set of small-block Chevy engine mounts.
6. After bolting on the adapter plates and your stock-style motor mounts, you can now bolt an LS1 anywhere that a small-block Chevy once rested.
7. This swap is also easy in that the frame interfered with the new engine in only two places. Here is the first: If you want to use the stock exhaust manifolds, you’ll have to grind the passenger’s-side manifold a bit to create clearance. As an alternative, S&P sells headers that will work in this application.
8. Note that alternator clearance isn’t a problem, but the same is not true for the A/C compressor on the other side of the engine.
9. New bracketry from S&P will relocate the compressor to the top of the passenger’s side of the engine.
10. S&P installed a Sanden 508 compressor followed by a 97-inch Goodyear Gatorback accessory belt (PN 4060970).
11. The factory transmission crossmember will work just fine with the new 4L60E automatic if you move the crossmember forward a bit and drill new mounting holes in the frame.
12. The original column-shift Turbo 400 linkage will still work with the new transmission. However, it will not allow you to manually shift the transmission into first gear.
13. The best place to install an oil pressure sending unit is on the oil bypass plate just above the oil filter. Drill and tap the plate to accommodate a 1/8-inch pipe thread. S&P also sells this 45-degree adapter to keep the sending unit away from the exhaust manifold.
14. The owner wanted to install a set of Dakota Digital gauges, and this change required relocating the coolant temp sensor. To do so, S&P drilled and tapped the top of the water pump outlet boss. Use grease on the drill to trap the shavings and keep them out of the water pump.
15. Here’s the Dakota Digital instrument cluster taking the place of the original gauges.
16. Your LS1 will require electric fans, and it’s a good idea to replace the radiator, too. Griffin supplied both the aluminum crossflow radiator and the dual electric fans.
17. The Griffin radiator installs as a direct replacement. It locates the inlet at the top of the passenger’s side and the outlet on the bottom of the passenger’s side. It also includes a transmission cooler in the driver’s-side tank.
18. For the upper radiator hose, use Goodyear No. 60867. For the lower hose, use Goodyear No. 61331. Note the hose connection from the steam line on the cylinder heads to the fitting on the radiator.
19. S&P used a 16mm O-ring to AN6 adapter fi tting to connect the pressure side of the LS1 power steering pump to the stock steering box, using Aeroquip hose.
20. At the steering box, you’ll need an 18mm O-ring to male AN6 adapter fi tting to attach the pressure hose.
21. This owner didn’t want to give up his dual fuel tanks, but a regular fuel pump will never get the job done. Instead you’ll need to install an AC Delco EP 241 electric pump in each tank. For the driver’s-side tank, use a GM No. 25090846 sending unit and a GM No. 25090837 sender in the passenger’s-side tank. Don’t forget to use high-pressure fuel hose.
22. Mark the three connections on the top of the fuel pump so you know which is which.
23. The stock switch and switching harness won’t work with the new engine because they can’t support the needed amount of fuel pressure. You’ll need GM switching harness No. 12053117. You’ll also need a new switching valve, which you can buy from S&P or take from an ’87- newer GM truck.
24. Of course, you’ll also need a fuel filter, and S&P can provide you with a kit that includes a stainless-steel-bodied GM 481 filter, mounting bracket and the appropriate hardware and adapters to make the necessary connections.
25. F-body engines use a returnless fuel system with a regulator in the tank. However, ’97-’98 Corvette LS1 engines used separate feed and return lines, so S&P installed these Corvette fuel rails on the F-body engine.
26. To make an extremely simple air intake, mount a 4-inch 90-degree PVC elbow to the throttle body and then hook up the air fi lter and the LS1 MAF sensor. Here, S&P drilled and tapped the elbow to accept the LS1 air temp sensor.
27. S&P off ers wiring harnesses for LS1 motors and T56 manual or 4L60E automatics. These harnesses eliminate the functions you don’t need, such as the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System), but include labeled, color-coated connectors.
28. Before driving the truck, test the fuel system for adequate pressure and no leaks. At idle you’ll need 50 pounds of fuel pressure, and up to 58 pounds of pressure during acceleration.
29. After you’ve installed your gauges, make sure the fuel levels in both tanks are reading properly.
30. Here’s the finished installation. Obviously this truck is more about function than form, but you can imagine how good this will look in your show truck.
EDITOR’S NOTE
Street & Performance, Inc. unfortunately closed its doors back in 2016, but don’t worry. Whether you’re searching for parts to complete your LS swap or need a full drivetrain package, Gandrud Performance Parts has you covered with top-notch gear and stellar service.
