THE AUTO BUILDER
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E-BODY MOPAR AIRBAR
If you lived during the muscle car era or have any experience with the E-body Mopars—’Cudas and Challengers—then you understand that these were factory rocket ships that were pure excitement to drive. Perhaps you recall those Plum Crazy 340 six-pack ’Cudas and 440 six-pack Challengers—they were hot back then, and they’re even hotter to own now.
HAMMERHEAD
Of all the cars that have found favor among super rodders and racers alike, few would argue the appeal of ’39-’41 Willys coupes and pickups, which have enjoyed a powerful attraction since first appearing as gas coupe and sedan drag racers back in the ’60s.
SLICK SLEEPER
Mustangs are usually not candidates for sleepers, because everyone knows Mustangs have plenty of power from the factory for their lightweight bodies. This example, owned by Mike Skiles, looks like an original ’69 Mustang, but as soon as the engine is fired, that logic is thrown out the window.
Spotlighter
kickin’ it
How to Update the Interior of Almost Any Pickup With Homemade Kick Panels
Author
Josh Kaylor
Photography by Mike Dempsey
Over the past 20 years custom truck interiors have taken on many forms, and like so much of the world today, prices and costs for these outlandish interiors have reached new heights in every way. Molded, flowing consoles, leather and killer stereos have taken front row in the world of custom interiors, and gone are the old, plain, painted panels.
Going to the local upholstery shop can mean some serious change in today’s market, as the price of materials and the cost of labor have risen dramatically. But leave it to truck guys to study the art of interiors to help contain the cost of a new look, making effective use of options throughout the build of a classic or a more modern truck.
While checking out some pictures on the Internet, we happened upon this at-home molded kick panel build that cost under $50!
You may ask how?
With a little ingenuity and a few hours of hard work you, too, can build a set of custom kick panels that is sure to keep your friends curious at the next cruise night. Now, speaker choice is strictly up to you, but for around $30 to $40 you can have a nice set of 5-1/2-inch speakers. The owner of this ’69 Chevy Suburban was tired of not having any speakers, as well as the dreary painted kick panels of his classic truck. It was time for an update.
After a trip to the local parts store and to Home Depot, he managed to pick up the needed materials, which totaled around $50. He then gathered the necessary tools, which included a jig saw, a designated work table, scissors, hot glue gun and rubber gloves, and began building his new kick panels. The owner worked on the kick panels for two afternoons, allowing the fiberglass to cure between the work. This allowed proper curing time before upholstery. Thanks to the T-shirt mold the kick panel build was easy, and it turned out great!
This particular installation included speakers, but it can be completed as a smooth panel even more easily. The new kick panels look awesome, and the new speakers will pump out the tunes while cruising to the next show, all for under $100 including speakers. There are, however, premium speakers that will cost considerably more. Here’s how the process goes.
Price List
Vinyl: $7
Speaker wire: $8
Fiberglass cloth: $6
Fiberboard sheet: $5
Fiberglass resin: $15
Supplies (paint brushes, sandpaper, etc): $5
Old T-shirt: Free
Begin by placing a sheet of cardboard against your stock panel for panel shape reference. This particular truck happens to be a ’69 and has the appropriate relief for the fresh air hole cut in the template.
The template is then transferred to a sheet of fiberboard. You can use a variety of board types for this particular step. It’s strictly up to you.
After tracing the template to the board, a jig saw is used to cut out the new kick-panel shapes. The board used here will provide a solid foundation for the new fiberglass mold.
The owner of this truck wanted to mold-in custom speaker enclosures, as space in his truck is limited. For this, particleboard is used to make mounting rings and bridges for the speakers.
The speaker fit is double-checked before the ring is mounted to the bridges. It fits perfectly and will hold the speaker securely while the stereo thumps away.
A small, hot glue gun is used to attach the speaker ring once the desired angle is achieved. Once the speaker construction is complete it is allowed to dry overnight to ensure that it’s ready for the next step.
The two kick panels are now complete. As you can see, the template was simply flipped over for the driver’s side. Choosing speaker angle and size is strictly a personal preference, but keep in mind that these speakers will be mounted low (at your feet), leaving them prone to being kicked.
The kick panels are test fit one last time before the fiberglass process begins. Leave 1/4 inch between any contact area because the T-shirt, fiberglass and vinyl will thicken the panel.
Don’t laugh: Take an old T-shirt, lay it over the kick panel and stretch it tightly. Be sure not to damage the speaker tower in the process. A small stapler or tape will hold the shirt to the board securely.
This is how the kick panel should look with the T-shirt wrapping. This will provide a solid base for the fiberglass and provide a better idea of how the kick panel will look.
With the T-shirt stretched, each kick panel is covered in fiberglass resin. The first sheet of mat is laid over the panels and shaped. We recommend handling this step in a well-ventilated area.
A second coat of fiberglass resin and mat is again laid over the panel and shaped. The second layer of fiberglass will provide additional strength to withstand abuse.
Allow the panels to dry thoroughly overnight, then test fit with the new speakers installed. Installing the speakers is as simple as filing or sawing to clean up the speaker hole, drilling attachment holes.
The kick panel is first laid over the material and any excess material is removed. The vinyl is cut to the shape of the panel, leaving excess vinyl for gluing on the backside.
One by one each edge is cut, glued and folded onto the back of the kick panel. Be sure to spray a fair amount of adhesive to the fabric being used so as to eliminate wrinkles.
Fabric type is a personal choice; here a white vinyl was chosen. Any local fabric store should have what you need. It took $7 worth of material to cover two panels. More exotic material will cost a little extra.
A small set of scissors is used to cut reliefs in the speaker hole. Cut carefully so as not to expose any of the kick panel once the speaker is installed.
Once the fabric has dried, the speaker can be slid into place. As we mentioned, the speaker choice, as long as it fits, is strictly up to you.
In some installs, for the kick panels to fit flush the speaker wire has to be recessed into the panel along the back. Take a small knife or Dremel tool and simply carve a recess in the fiberboard for the wires to fit.
The new kick panel now looks great! The relief in the top corner allows the use of fresh-air vents.
The factory-fresh air vent handles protrude through the dash face. But as the plan is to smooth the dash, the handles and mechanisms were removed.
A template was made for mounting the handle bracket onto a sheetmetal panel and drilled to fit.
The template was then transferred to the kick panel, where small holes were drilled for the mounting bracket. Care must be taken not to damage the newly upholstered kick panels.
The new fresh-air vent handles were then attached to the kick panels using new hardware. This addition allows the owner to enjoy the fresh air when the A/C is not wanted.
The E-brake pad was just a little too close for comfort. The pad was relocated (slid over) three-quarters of the way on the bracket, allowing for additional clearance between the panel and the E-brake pedal.
With the bracket mounted for the fresh-air doors, the kick panels are finished and mounted. They look great and provide a cool, clean look to any tired classic truck interior.
