B-Series Block Hop-up
July 16, 2023
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THE AUTO BUILDER
Featured
Pedal to the Metal
The asphalt trembled beneath the thunderous roar of LS and LT-powered beasts as they descended upon the Las Vegas Motor Speedway for LS Fest West 2024. This wasn’t just a race; it was a showdown of epic proportions, where horsepower ruled and adrenaline flowed like never before.
BITS FROM THE PITS
Off road racing in the desert Southwest has been around for almost forty years now and we’ve never gotten tired of looking at vehicles and hardware associated with going off-road. Off-roading–racing or just having fun presents problems. We’re always intrigued by some of the solutions.Here’s what we found on a recent trip to Baja.
GOLDEN ARCHES
As enthusiasts, when we build our cars, we tend to stuff as much tire under those cars as possible. This is especially important for rear tires that hook the car to the ground while improving its stance. For those interested in drag-racing their cars, you will need to accommodate larger rear tires or slicks. The current hot trend is the 10.5-inch slick, which seems to work well on many applications, but depending on the make and model of your car, it may require modifications to enlarge the rear wheel openings to accommodate the larger rubber.
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SOMETHING OLD WITH SOMETHING NEW
Blending New Camaro Performance With Vintage Camaro Style
Author
Will Smith
Photography Courtesy of Street & Performance
Which Camaro is Better, the ’68 or the ’98?
Here’s a question that ought to neatly divide our reading audience in two: Which Camaro is better, the ’68 or the ’98?
Although it probably won’t be too difficult for you to choose your favorite, no doubt you’ll also admit that each model has its advantages and disadvantages. One thing that both cars share is a healthy amount of power. The small blocks that came in ’68 Camaros—the 302, 327, and 350—were all cool, but when you get down to hard numbers, they come up just a little short of the ’98 LS1. However, there’s a lot you can do to those earlier motors to make them more powerful, so at first glance, swapping one for the other may not seem like an obvious move.
The Advantages of the LS1 Engine
It’s difficult to think of any area in which the early small blocks compare favorably to the LS1. Though they make similar power, the LS1 is undoubtedly more economical, more reliable, and in some ways, easier to service (help is only a Chevrolet dealer computer away). Add to these advantages the pure cool factor that comes from swapping new motors into old cars, and the allure of the LS1, not to mention the LS6, becomes almost mesmerizing.
How to Swap an LS1 Into Your Camaro
The easiest way to put an LS1 in your Camaro is to call GM and order one of its brand-new crate motors and wiring harnesses. “Easiest” however, should not be confused with cheapest. The crate motor route is expensive and beyond the reach of most enthusiasts’ budgets. But don’t think that just because you can’t afford a crate motor, you can’t afford an LS1. Just as you would have done 30 years ago, it’s still possible to go to a good wrecking yard, find a late-model engine, and place it in the car of your choice. The main difference between 30 years ago and now is that today you’ll need a lot more help figuring it all out.
The Expertise of Street & Performance
Before you even consider such a swap, you should call Street & Performance, which knows how to swap an LS1 into just about anything, as well as swapping just about anything into a Camaro. The shop knows both ends of the equation, including the problems you may encounter, and it has already developed the parts you’ll need to get around those problems. S&P may even find you a donor motor and/or transmission, so it could take only one call to get virtually everything you need to complete this swap (short of oil).
The Value of S&P’s Experience
S&P provides more than just hardware. It offers a great blend of knowledge, experience, and the ability to try things that haven’t been done before. When S&P gets it right—as it always does—you’re the one who benefits.
2a-2b. The bracketry setup differs between the Corvette (A) and F-body (B) engines. The Corvette motor will generally fit in custom applications better, but you may need a Street & Performance bracket kit no matter which engine you find.
2a-2b. The bracketry setup differs between the Corvette (A) and F-body (B) engines. The Corvette motor will generally fit in custom applications better, but you may need a Street & Performance bracket kit no matter which engine you find.
3. Another thing to be aware of is that the harmonic balancer on the Corvette (left) is 3/4-inch shorter than that of the F-body (center). The balancer from the LS-style Vortech engine is on the right.
4. One item you won’t need is the factory wiring harness. It’s large, ridiculously complicated and controls a bunch of functions you won’t need in a pre-emissions car. Would you honestly want to try to hook this thing up yourself?
5. For the sake of comparison, here’s the S&P harness, which eliminates all the connections you don’t need and labels those you do. Even we could figure out this thing.
6. S&P can reprogram your donor vehicle’s computer so that it’s compatible with your vehicle. Send the shop the computer, along with tire diameter, transmission type, gear ratio and all engine upgrade info.
7a-7b. S&P also builds motor mount adapters for the LS1, which means you won’t have to change your original mounts to get the motor in the correct spot.
7a-7b. S&P also builds motor mount adapters for the LS1, which means you won’t have to change your original mounts to get the motor in the correct spot.
8a-8b. During test fitting, you’ll notice that the stock oil pan won’t clear the steering setup. S&P sells modified oil pans to fit this application on an exchange and outright basis, and it can do the same for other vehicles, such as tri-5 Chevys.
8a-8b. During test fitting, you’ll notice that the stock oil pan won’t clear the steering setup. S&P sells modified oil pans to fit this application on an exchange and outright basis, and it can do the same for other vehicles, such as tri-5 Chevys.
9a-9b. You’ll need a special set of headers for this application, and guess who makes them? That’s right, S&P. You can count on the shop to have just about everything you’ll need for a swap like this one.
9a-9b. You’ll need a special set of headers for this application, and guess who makes them? That’s right, S&P. You can count on the shop to have just about everything you’ll need for a swap like this one.
10. GM also changed the fuel system on the LS1 between 1998 and 1999. This is a ’97-’98 engine, which uses dual fuel lines for feed and return, both of which exit through the driver’s-side coil covers.
11. This shot shows a ’99-up LS1 motor with its single fuel line exiting through the coil cover. However, S&P converted this particular engine to dual lines, with the extra line exiting from underneath the coil cover.
12. If you’re mixing and matching parts, it’s important to identify what you have and what you need. The top pair of fuel rails is the later style, while the bottom pair is from an early LS1.
13. You’ll need new lines to take your fuel to the rails, so S&P designed this rear exit kit with hard line and braided stainless sections. It’s available with driver- and passenger-side exit configurations.
14. Another item you’ll need to address is the installation of a sender for a coolant gauge. The 12mm plug at the rear of the passenger-side head (right next to the header flange) is a good location. After removing the plug, you can drill and tap the hole to fit a pipe thread, or order an adapter bushing from S&P.
15. If you don’t want to use the factory-style air filter and MAF sensor, S&P offers this more attractive unit.
16. This oil bypass plug comes standard on all LS1/LS6 engines. If you choose, you can remove it, then drill and tap into it to install the S&P oil pressure sending unit. This will keep the sender down away from the heat of the header.
17a-b. Before you can permanently mount the engine and transmission in place, there are several issues you must address. The first is a modification to your clutch pedal. You must fabricate a new clutch master cylinder arm using this drawing, and then weld it into place.
17a-b. Before you can permanently mount the engine and transmission in place, there are several issues you must address. The first is a modification to your clutch pedal. You must fabricate a new clutch master cylinder arm using this drawing, and then weld it into place.
18a-b. Another piece you’ll need to fabricate (or order from S&P) is this clutch bracket. As seen in the installed photo, the bracket needs a 20-degree to 23-degree bend to match the angle of the hydraulic cylinder.
18a-b. Another piece you’ll need to fabricate (or order from S&P) is this clutch bracket. As seen in the installed photo, the bracket needs a 20-degree to 23-degree bend to match the angle of the hydraulic cylinder.
19. It will be necessary to find or buy an LS1 slave cylinder reservoir and line (GM PN 12570277). Here you can see that the line plugs in directly to the side of the bellhousing without an external slave cylinder, as does the T56 for the LT1 motor.
20. Lokar supplies all the accessories that you’ll need, including clutch cables.
21. If you’re converting from a carbureted setup, there’s no way your old fuel pump will be able to handle the additional pressure that EFI motors require. You can replace your old pump with an external electric pusher pump, or do what this owner did and install a new stainless gas tank from Rock Valley, which includes an internal high-pressure pump. The tank came with all the mounting straps and hardware, and is a bolt-in replacement.
22. S&P’s stainless steel fuel filter kit comes with the mounting bracket, hardware and AN6 fittings. High-quality, braided stainless fuel line was used in those places where hard lines were impractical.
23. Tube Tech supplied the hard fuel lines and the corresponding hardware.
24. Now you should be able to reinstall the engine in the car.
25. A Griffin aluminum radiator replaces the original piece. The crossflow radiator comes with the electric fan already mounted, and both inlet and outlet are on the passenger side.
26. To get the coolant from the radiator to the engine, you’ll want to get one of S&P’s water necks, available in straight and 45-degree swivel-neck varieties. In this case, the angled-neck design was a good fit.
27. This S&P fan control switch installed into the bottom left port on the new Griffin radiator. It ties the electric fan to the high-pressure switch on the A/C system so that even if the radiator isn’t hot, the A/C will activate the electric fan to pull air through the condenser.
28. You definitely don’t want to reuse the factory power steering reservoir or radiator overflow from an LS1-powered car. They’ll never suit the look of a super rod. Here, each mounts to the left of the radiator on the driver’s side.
EDITOR’S NOTE
Street & Performance, Inc. sadly closed its doors back in 2016, but don’t sweat it. Whether you’re hunting for LS swap parts or need a complete drivetrain package, the experts at Gandrud Performance Parts have you covered with top-notch gear and killer service.
ARTICLE SOURCES
Street & Performance, Inc. - CLOSED
#1 Hot Rod Lane
Mena, AR 71953
479/394-5711
