THE AUTO BUILDER

Featured

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT: The Accusump by Canton Racing Products

December 31, 2024

Goodguys Launches Inaugural BASF Legends of Hot Rodding

The first-ever Goodguys BASF Legends of Hot Rodding event brought the heart and soul of traditional hot rodding straight to downtown Nashville, Tennessee, delivering a premium weekend packed with world-class hot rods, customs, live music, and the unmistakable energy of America’s golden automotive era. Held May 15–16 at the newly renovated Fairgrounds Nashville, the all-new event delivered a fresh experience for hardcore enthusiasts while celebrating the roots of the hobby that built hot rodding culture.

As Luck Would Have It

It’s a scenario we all dream about. We don’t mean dreaming about winning the lottery or dating Eliza Dushku; we mean one that can actually happen, like finding your dream car and being able to take it home.

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW

There’s a lot to like about vintage engines. Just the sheer fact that it isn’t a small-block Chevy is enough to inspire many hot rodders. Now, don’t get us wrong; the small-block Chevrolet is nothing less than awesome, but it is also the default engine of most hot rodders. Often, there is no thought involved as many rodders simply want the 350/350 treatment. That’s probably fine for most hot rodders, but there has been a real resurgence in putting vintage motors in vintage hot rods, and we love the concept. The Oldsmobile, Cadillac, Buick Nailhead and Hemi are all great candidates for powering a vintage hot rod. Parts are still available for most of these engines, some being tougher to find than others. A surprising amount of speed equipment survives for these engines, too, and companies like Offenhauser still produce a lot of vintage speed equipment.

Spotlighter

THEM’S THE BRAKES

Installing Baer’s Latest Extreme-Plus Ford Brake System on a Ford F-150

Author

Matt Emery

Story & Photography

There is no other more important system than braking, so when the folks at Baer told us at the SEMA Show that they were finishing up their latest kit—one designed to fit the Ford F-150, as well as the Expedition, Navigator and Navigator 4WD—we wanted to see one installed. Baer has been producing high-?performance braking systems since 1986. The company specializes in high-performance, bolt-on brake systems that radically enhance the ability of the otherwise stock brake systems.

With the advent of 20-inch and larger wheels, not to mention that more and more enthusiasts are using their trucks for towing large toy-filled trailers, the need to upgrade the stock braking systems has never been more important. The additional size and weight of the larger wheels makes exponentially more inertia than the stock wheels do, making larger, more purpose-built brakes a must. If the trailer you are towing is not equipped with its own trailer brakes, then the truck is required to slow down that weight as well, so pay attention to your rig, front and rear, because when these two factors are combined the result is that the stock truck will require much longer distances to come to a complete stop.

Recently we were on hand as the crew at Extreme Automotive in Canoga Park, California, installed one of the very first kits that Baer released. In fact, this was literally the first one released. Extreme Automotive is a Ford specialist with more than 11 years in the business, and is also a longtime Baer distributor. We love to be in on things like this, and the chance to see a new product installed for the first time is exciting to us. When that new product is safety related it’s all the better.

Though larger brakes may be on your list simply because they are really cool looking, there is much more to the Baer Extreme-Plus system than simply improved aesthetics. As cool as oversize rotors look, when you are trying to get your overloaded truck to slow while rolling down a steep incline you will be more happy with the way they perform than with the way they look.

Remember, safety is no accident.

With the truck on the lift, the wheels are removed. This install doesn’t require a lift, so those at home can do it with a hydraulic jack and some sturdy jackstands.

Measuring 12 inches, the stock brake system is fine for those who are not going to be adding larger wheels or doing any serious towing, but for the majority of the truck enthusiasts out there fine simply isn’t good enough.

There is a bracket that holds the hydraulic line to the lower arm. This should be removed to allow the stock caliper to be placed out of the way.

When the caliper is removed, it should always be tied up with a zip tie or a piece of wire so that it is not hanging on the hydraulic line.

With the removal of the cotter pin, nut and washer the stock rotor is removed.

Any and all grease should be removed from the spindle, and the spindle itself should be inspected for any damage such as cracks (unlikely but possible) or grooves worn into the metal of the tip. Also check the threads to determine that all is okay.

The pickup for the antilock brakes should also be cleaned. After carefully wiping off the grease, a shot of brake cleaner is all that is needed to prep it for the next step.

Normally the Baer hub will be equipped with the antilock sensor ring. But for those who need to install one, or whose ring has been damaged in any way, here is how you install it. First put the hub into the freezer for a good while. Being aluminum, it takes about an hour until it’s really cold. When it’s cold enough it will constrict slightly.

With the ring hot and the hub cold, all it takes to get the ring seated is to tap it onto the hub. Be careful not to get the ring bound up, and make sure that it is completely seated. You can tell by the sound that the punch will make when the ring is seated. It will sound solid and not tinny.

Baer greases the hub and bearings for you, so it is as simple as slipping it onto the spindle. One note is that Baer uses synthetic grease on its parts, so you may want to get some for future packing jobs.

When tightening the nut, it is important not to overtighten it. Of course, too loose is not good either, but if the nut is too tight the bearings will prematurely wear, and the heat caused by the friction may damage other components such as the antilock brake mechanism. The rule of thumb is to tighten the nut “hand tight” and then back it off ever so slightly. Only a few degrees of a turn is needed.